Tapas are the prime topic here, like polvo tempura, biquerones and sweet potato fries. Oh, and…read morespecialty cocktails are front and center too. The mixologists are first rate and the products they coax out of a blizzard of bottles and juices are well worth the up charge. Go with the recommended mix of the day. You won't regret it. And if alcohol free is your thing, they can mix you a virgin anything.
Our usual has always been the mushroom risotto, alongside the polvo tempura and a big bowl of fresh cut sweet potato fries. This trifecta has remaining unaltered despite so many changes in Tavira over recent years.
The tempura is outstanding! The concept was invented in Portugal and exported to Japan a couple hundred years ago. Since the Algarve is Octopus central, literally crawling with the buggers in season, no surprise that you will always get the freshest possible bite here, and even if previously frozen, remember that freezing these before cooking is mandatory if you want that crispy bite outside and a tender finish inside. Ask for extra mayo and thank me later.
Reservations are a must, as CNG is always jammed during the summer season. Al fresco dining is recommended if you are a 6 (or fewer) person group - being as the tight quarters inside augmented by loud tourists makes chatting almost impossible.
CNG has now added several new eateries around town, like Sushi Na Gaveta for fair to middling sushi in town, and another clone of the original on Tavira island. A take/away and breakfast/brunch affiliate across the street from the original is OK for takeaway and your morning Joe with typical Portuguese snacks like pastel de nata (shrimp and meat versions available) and of course, the quintessential sweet snack called pastéis de nata - a cream filled pastry in a pastry cup - synonymous with Portugal. A must have anywhere you dine in this country; but don't miss the original version found only in Belem - charred and delicious like no other.
So we have dined at the original CNG scores of times and my rating reflects what I find to be a steady decline in quality and interest. The name sounds like a cool bistro bar, and perhaps it once was. These days it is crowded with tourists and has lost (for me at least) the authenticity we discovered many years ago. I attribute this decline, in part, to the fact that the owner redistributed his best staff to run his new locations. What staff is left at the original, which survives mostly on its reputation is run mostly by newbies - leaving large gaps in service, avoidable kitchen gaffes and confusion in reservations.
Top Tip: If you want traditional Portuguese food done right, look elsewhere. CNG is the tourist trap it never was in the past, but has now become so because the owner is trading on the original good will and reputation of this location to market all the new offshoots. He could have differentiated better, and instead has diluted his brand. Coming next is a CNG bakery and patisserie - in a town glutted by such establishments. Baking was never a CNG strong suit, but in fairness -- I will give it a look once opened.
Lastly, prices here have risen sharply over the past 5 or so years, while quality dropped. Wars in Europe and the Middle East strain the economics of a trendy gastro pub wannabe like CNG. Stiff competition has out pubbed CNG all around town, and will continue to do so as Tavira continues to outgrow its charming smaller self.
Time will test whether CNG has the stones to withstand the triple threat of over-tourism, wars in Europe and changing culinary habits of the true Tavira locals. Still worth a look if you are new in town, or just visiting.
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