The Agate Fossil Beds are so named for the huge deposit of a mix of fossilized bones from the Miocene Epoch beginning around 23 million years ago. Considering the relatively recent timing, the bones found in the park are almost entirely from mammals.
At some point in the past animals with a fairytale-like twist such as two-horned rhinos, wild bear-dogs, a clawed horse, camel-gazelles, and beaver-looking prairie dogs (that dug bizarre spiralized tunnels) dominated this region when it was transitioning from lush and forested to dry and barren. When ponds dried up and the animals all gathered around, they got stuck in the mud and died, adding to a growing pile of deposited bones that later fossilized due to volcanic ash layers burying them.
While the paleontological high points of this beautiful park cannot be understated (a short hike of the two trails is well worth your time) the most impressive installation here, to me, was the one that expanded upon the history of James Cook, an early western rancher and settler, and Red Cloud, a leader of a local Lakota band. The two formed a close bond, their wives as well, and this led to many encampments of Red Cloud's band on the Cook ranch.
The Lakota left a plethora of gifts to the Cook family that weathered the test of time and found their way into this museum. Compared to most other national park units in this general area of the country, this one does the best job of elaborating on Lakota life and hammering home the tumultuous impact on Native American Indians in the region at the hands of the US government.
I was left moved especially by the gentle and unbiased nature in which Lakota life and experience was presented, allowing the visitor to develop their own impressions and thoughts. The beautiful pictographic winter count hide that greets you at the entrance to this special section could hold your attention for an hour easily. If you aren't driven to visit the park for the fossils, you should visit it for this exhibit in my humble opinion. read more