Chacarita Cemetery is really well located (few steps from Urquiza train line and Subte B's Lacroze station, and there are many bus stops nearby) but definitely not as popular as Recoleta cemetery. Sure, it's bigger, but size doesn't matter (hey) even though the comparisons are unavoidable.
Established in 1887, this cemetery is 65 years newer than the one in Recoleta, but it's 216 acres larger. Their genesis are also quite different, since Chacarita cemetery owes theirs to the yellow fever victims that were refused burial in Recoleta. Nowadays, the area around Recoleta cemetery is trendy, almost upscale, while Chacarita neighborhood is humbler and, if you're faint of heart, maybe even a bit on the scary side.
The cemetery is huge, with streets and sidewalks that cover the expanse of this impressive place. The first section contains the mausoleums, some of them are pristine architectural wonders, while others are grim and graphic reminders that nothing lasts forever. This is, in my opinion, the best part of the cemetery and I wouldn't recommend to prioritize exploring beyond instead of focusing on the mausoleums.
The next section is a vast expanse of land with strange structures that fool the eye from afar. Those structures are staircases that go two floors below, in a pseudo open-space so it isn't as creepy, where the niches are located. It looks like giant walls of file cabinets for coffins, similar to columbariums. These niches also surround the cemetery, like a protective wall. Some of them are empty, abandoned or broken, like most things in Chacarita Cemetery.
The last part is acres and acres of graves. Some of them are very new, as you will be able to tell by the freshly removed dirt, some of them are now unmarked and waiting for removal and reuse of the plot. There aren't many remarkable headstones, although two things surprised me: first, the windmills and other moving things in cemeteries will always freak me out, and now they are writing 'RIP' (by hand, kinda charming in a very simplistic, sad way) on the crosses instead of the 'QEPD' Spanish version. Is it because it's shorter? Because of movies?
There are also some lovely pantheons, a huge crematorium, a chapel, and historical archives. The Cemetery is well guarded, so don't hesitate to get lost if you have the time and are into that sort of thing. read more