Llancarfan is a delightful village in the Vale of Glamorgan, tucked away up a narrow valley (and accessed - be warned - via some very narrow lanes). Best known for its pub, the Fox and Hounds, it is also home to one of Wales's oldest Christian sites.
Here, St Cadoc founded a small monastery around 515AD. Viking raids and economic decline meant that, by the Norman conquest, the original foundation was probably a shadow of its former self, but evidence points to small Norman church having been founded on the site, rebuilt between the 12th and 15th centuries into the impressive church we see today.
As well as the robust Gothic architecture, the church retains a fine mediaeval screen and Retford. But Pride of place is reserved for the substantial remains of mediaeval wall paintings, which rank among the best in Britain.
For here are a superb rendition of St George and the dragon, being watched by a fine red-bearded king, his queen and the daughter (who St George is saving), with her sacrificial lamb, all watched over by the Virgin Mary. Then there is s complete rendition of the Seven Deadly Sins and a less complete depiction of the Seven Corporal Acts of Mercy.
Finally there is a wonderful death and gallant, where a rotting corpse (complete with toad and worms) leads a young 15th Century dandy out of the church and into the graveyard. This is the only surviving depiction of this motif in a British church.
The tower has a small Romanesque window set high up, possibly re-used from the earlier Norman church.
The church still has regular services and is well worth a visit. read more