This is a very good event, but it's not great. Considering what the ticket prices go for($125 to start, $200+ for VIP), you kind of expect greatness. A lot of my main discontent with this year's version (2012) reminded me of why I wasn't a fan in 2010 and subsequently skipped 2011 (which was apparently the best of the bunch). There were certainly some improvement with things like an unlimited bourbon bar featuring 3 different types going into Manhattans, but ultimately that's not what you come for. You're here for pork, and that part let me down just a wee bit.
There were 5 moderately acclaimed restaurant/chef combinations including Scott Drewno (The Source), Nicolas Stefanelli (Bibiana), Ed Witt (701), Mike Isabella (Graffito), and Wes Morton (Art and Soul). To me it seemed like Drewno and Stefanelli were the only chefs whose food clearly resembled their restaurant's trademark style, although there were decent dishes at all the booths (yes, even from Isabella, as much as it pains me to say that). Drewno wound up winning (his second in a row), but I found Stefanelli's offerings to be more memorable. I thought Drewno did well, but his highs weren't as high for me as Stefanelli's were, and I actually preferred a couple other chef's best dishes to his.
A few of my favorite options from each chef (in the order I would have voted them overall):
-Stefanelli: cannoli with crispy leef fat and ricotta; carbonara ravioli with pecorino, black pepper, and egg yolk
-Morton: muffaletta of mortadella, salame rossa, smoked coppa, pickled cauliflower & olive salad; Andouille with sea island peas and collards with smoked ham hock
-Witt: Boar's Ruin cocktail with Elijah Craig bourbon and tobacco and cider braised pork belly; fennel sausage and nettle agnolotti w/ black olive pork jus and coppa
-Drewno: Korean BBQ with kochujan marinated pork, lettuce cup, crispy rice, and cucumber kimchee; "chips and dip" pork rinds with Penang pig head curry
-Isabella: spitroasted pork shoulder w/ lemon & yogurt; pork belly and jelly donut
These were all good bites, but the contest as a whole was lacking many true "wow" moments. I actually preferred the jars of Benton's bacon on the tables to several of the items. If you want to see what each dish (and all the others) looked like check out the full photo recap with captions here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/sets/72157629520592838/
In the end I think we can all say that we were just happy Mike Isabella didn't win, considering how much he was whoring himself to all the voters. You seriously couldn't go 2 minutes in the giant crowded room without hearing his obnoxious grating voice, and he thought his "jelly belly" donut wording was so damn creative. I couldn't resist going up to him mid-shout one time and asking "so what's your name young fella?" just to see the reaction, which was pretty priceless. The guy gave out hats, buttons, t-shirts, cookies, and just about everything else possible to try and win votes, when he should have just made better food. It was admittedly better than I thought, but he was also starting off around the expectation level of a kindergartener.
The extras this year were pretty good, with some of the better wines coming from Domaine Serene, Adelsheim, and Elk Cove. The bourbon station was by far superior though, with Manhattan's mixed up from the guys at Alembic Bar (including Danny Hyatt himself) of San Francisco fame, and featuring 3 top notch bourbons: Angel's Envy, Hudson, and Hirsch. They're all 3 very different styles of bourbon, with my favorite being the Angel's Envy, but the best for Manhattans being the Hudson due to its softness. They all came in cute little Mason ball jars with Cochon 555 wrappers, which you could take, but you had to leave the glass behind. The oyster station featured a new variety for me, the Olde Salts, which I thought were fantastic and blew away the sweetness of the other 2 kinds. And of course there was the giant cheese spread, featuring classics from Cowgirl, Rogue Creamery, and Kerrygold. I could have stood there eating blue cheese all evening, especially when paired with that delicious bacon jam.
I wound up leaving before the after-party began, mainly because it was pouring rain and I wanted a cab before the entire place emptied out, but also because I was just really damn full and pretty drunk. I guess you could call that a successful evening over all, and if that's what you're going for then you should definitely attend next year's event. read more