This is not a place you just stumble into, even if you know where it is! I'm glad I finally, after…read moremany years of dreaming, was able to spend an afternoon here on a recent road trip down 99.
It is a place that seems so desolate, even though not far from towns and cities, and my first thought was "how was this a bustling city of hundreds of folks just one hundred years ago. Yet, when I took the time to visit the buildings - each and every one of them - I began to get the big picture and see what may have been, although much is missing.
When I drove in, I was literally the only one in town. There were a few cars and trailers next door by the RV/camp area, past the old schoolhouse, but no one in the park proper. I started with the visitor center, which is a nondescript trailer next to elevated decks and tables, next to a green lawn - the only one you'll pretty much see here - and an amazing mound of various cacti! The center is simple, with a space and chairs for offerings, and exhibits to whet your appetite. Included are artifacts from the town, clothing from the era, and the medals worn by Colonel Allensworth. Seeing these in old black and white photos, then seeing them in person in living 3-D color, is moving.
Before you visit, though, you MUST do your research about Col. Allensworth, his life and legacy, and the town in general. It's history is a needed basis for the time you will want to spend here. After the visitor center, I set off to visit each building, going counter-clockwise, starting with the "new" schoolhouse next to the visitor center.
All the buildings here, outhouses exempted, have information placards about the structure, as well as codes for accessing on your phone audio presentations about the building and the people who lived and/or worked in that building. These really flesh out the life of the town, as you meet everyone from the founders, to the leaders, to the business folk and farmers, and blacksmiths and storekeepers, and librarians and constables, and all the others who called this area home.
One thing that struck me, as I was reading and listening to these histories, was how many people moved here from other areas. Some came from Bakersfield and Fresno, rather close, but others came from Alameda and Oakland, up in my area, and not a quick trip in those days, as well as other popular Southern California towns. This tells me how strong this city of Allensworth was at its heyday, to draw people into the central valley to join in a common effort of life and success. Amazing stories, indeed.
The buildings have been restored after decades of neglect and material theft, but they are close, if not exact, replicas. Each building can be walked up to, but is not open. However, you can, and should, walk around and look in any windows you can reach. The windows seem to have a covering that reflects the UV rays of the ever-present sun, so from a distance, there is no way to see inside. But when you get close and put your face to the window, most of the buildings offer an interior view of what that building likely looked like in the past. Some of my photos show these interiors.
This is why you really need to visit each, if not most, of the buildings to get the most of what this place offers.
I was blessed to encounter two California State Parks interpretive rangers who were about to film a presentation at Allensworth's home while I was there, and they graciously offered me a peek inside as they set up. What a moment, to stand in the Allensworth house and see what they called home for many years. I wish more places were accessible like this, but given the location and scarcity of folks here, for other than the two rangers and three park maintenance workers, it was empty, I can see why they need to keep the buildings safe.
For me, the whole time spent here was several hours and a few miles walked. Be sure to wear sun protection, as there is very little shade left.
I could chat all day about the park and what it offers, but there are many great online resources on its history, with good photos, maps, and other information to help you plan a visit here. I took about 150 photos, but have only offered a sampling here, again, to whet YOUR appetite for a visit!
The park is a diamond among gems for me, not for what it is lacking, but for what it tries to share - a history hidden, and a place of dreams and hopes left to languish in the valley sun. History is not always exciting, or aesthetic, or comfortable, and my time here reminded me of how these settlers built a living city from barren, dry, hot soil. Indeed, a great reminder of why this park is important for what it offers - a small step back into the history of Allensworth and its townspeople.