I adored everything about this festival!! While it is very busy and can be expensive, there's ways to enjoy yourself even if you are an introvert and don't want to spend all the money.
Things to note, in level of importance:
#1. Don't be an ass. Don't be THAT tourist. I'm talking about the obnoxiously loud tourist who makes consistent sexist, ignorant comments, cussing every other word while talking about how he's hammered already. At noon. Oh yes, he was American. And I had the pleasure of sitting behind him for four freaking hours on the train to Pamplona. Please, mind your manners. You are a guest. Just because they don't all speak the language doesn't mean they don't understand what an obnoxious prick you're being.
#2. DO NOT MESS WITH THE BULLS. I saw more than a few people get slapped and beat up by locals when they intentionally tried to trip the bulls or grab their horns or tails. The locals were suprisingly very protective of the bulls. I saw more than a few locals who had old whites and reds on, as this was a custom in their family for many decades and they took the run very seriously.
#3. Book at least a few months in advance, if you can. If you book near old town, close to the run or citadel, know there are festivities until 3am and it will get loud! Otherwise I recommend staying 10-15mins out of the city center. It's so easy to get around by bus, costing 1.6€ and you'll have more choices at better prices.
#4. Bring your whites! You can get reasonably priced white clothes at the festival but they'll be poor quality. Bring whites and stick to buying your reds at the festival.
#5. The bull run, everyone talks about. But the other events are also worth it! The food in the night market is glorious! I especially loved Casa de Cantabria - wow! Fresh seafood, smooth red sangria, great prices. In different areas all over town are different events such as concerts, Spanish dancing, fireworks, even mini-festivals for kids. It was wonderful to experience.
I highly recommend coming for the opening ceremonies. It is, of course, the busiest time of the festival so it's craaazy. The opening day is when they have the big wine party, essentially a huge party with everyone in the streets shaking up red wine over each other. We stayed for a day and a half and it was enough for us but we are not big partiers or drinkers, so we didn't mind missing some things. As a cultural event it was wonderful to be a part of, especially watching the bull ring, where everyone would shout and hold their breath and react as one. Do not feel bad for these guys who get knocked out because they know exactly what they're getting into. The big, adult bulls are used for the run but young bulls are put in for the chase after. They're switched every few minutes and all these people running around just act like acrobatic clowns, seriously, jumping over the bulls and waving flags and making a spectacle of themselves for the crowd. I saw two guys get knocked out because of their shenanigans and the others brought them right away to waiting EMTs at the edge of the arena.
While I initially had reservations about how much I would enjoy the whole spectacle, it was refreshingly thought out and I really enjoyed myself. Good food and things to do for the entire family. It was a great festival! read more