A worthwhile tourist trap. In no universe could I foresee myself 1) discovering that this venue…read moreexisted, nor 2) voluntarily visiting. The Ulster Folk Museum feels like the kind of place that an elementary school class might visit on a field trip. However, I will admit that it was exceedingly charming, informative, and deserving of an hour or two if happen to be in the area.
We were warmly greeted by one of the performers (this one happened to be playing the role of a school teacher) and led up to the cinema for a briefing, due to the rain. We learned a bit of the history of the museum, which dates back more than a hundred years, and its purpose for capturing and maintaining the semblance of Irish village life back in the day. We were pointed toward certain artisans and actors that were on site during that day (e.g., the apothecary, printmaker, and blacksmith). Not all of the shops and attractions operate every day, so your mileage may vary. We were then handed maps to navigate the sprawling campus and invited to explore.
The rain was pretty oppressive at first, so I ducked into a few of the nearby venues to stay out of the worst of the downpour. I recall visiting a church, some fishing lodges, and the print shop. Once the precipitation eased, I quickly jaunted off to the blacksmith's forge -- the spot that most interested me. It's a healthy ten-minute walk from the entrance of the museum up a hill. I'm so glad I did!
I might have been the only one among my tour group to make it this far, because it was just me and the blacksmith in the smithy. When I arrived, he was pretty focused (with good reason!), so I just stood behind the stanchion and watched in rapt fascinating as he worked the bellows, heating a piece of iron until it glowed, then quenched the metal briefly before expertly hammering it into shape on the anvil. The rhythmic pattern of fanning the flames, sizzling water, and clanging anvil was entrancing.
During a lull, we struck up a conversation, and I learned that 70-year old Gerald had been smithing for more than a decade, was training several apprentices, and had wrought several custom designs featured on Game of Thrones. So cool. He even invited me to try out the bellows and to beat the anvil a few times. I was surprised at how much effort it took to maintain the fire -- after pumping the bellows for less than a minute, my shoulder started to tire. I can't imagine the stamina it must take to operate the smithy for a full shift!
Sadly, I had to hurry back to our tour bus before our group left without me. I could have happily stayed to gab with Gerald for longer, and I didn't have much of an opportunity to scope out the other exhibits of the museum. If you're into immersive historical experiences, I think you could easily spend a half-day or more bopping around. It's like a theme park, minus the thrill rides, and grounded in fact rather than imagination.
This was an unexpectedly enjoyable stop on our tour of Ireland and, in the end, I'm grateful we got dragged here!