Lakemba gets an undeserved bad rap in Sydney. This predominately Islamic neighbourhood in Sydney's south-west does have its share of youth problems and there can be the odd (yet very rare) act of physical tomfoolery (almost always involving unscrupulous youths against other unscrupulous youths), but generally, it's a quiet, welcoming and respectable community (a best mate's father lives there).
It is also home to some of the best Middle Eastern food that you can find east of Aleppo (or Damascus and Beirut). Walking along the main street (Haldon Street) you will come across Middle Eastern grocers and butchers, sweet shops and hole-in-the-wall manosha (Arabic pizza) and kebab places. Not only is Lakemba Sydney's epicentre for Middle Eastern food but as it is an Islamic neighbourhood there are Indonesian, Sumatran, Bangladeshi and even Christmas & Coccos Islands restaurants - all serving Halal food (and some home comforts) to hungry residents.
It is also the home of Jasmins where you can feed two for about $25 and still have food left at the table.
The menu offers individual dishes or combination platters (a bit of most favourites). The menu has the Middle Eastern staples: foule (broad beans); fatah (chick peas, pine nuts and yoghurt); homous; tabouli; kuftah; shish kebab; sausages (filled with minced lamb and pine nuts); grilled chicken, kebeh and falafel (among a few). Prices are surprising low - $8 for vegetarian, $12 for meat and the platters range from $16.
Once you order out comes a basket full of unleavened bread and a plate of mezes consisting of pickled cucumber slices and chili, olives, tomatoes, torshi lift (pink-coloured pickled turnip), onion, fresh mint and dishes of harissa and one of the best toum I have tasted. Toum is that wonderful light emulsion of minced garlic and olive oil (it's like aioli). At Jasmins it is creamy, fluffy and airy like a mousse. This one is not too overpowering or overbearing and is used sparingly to liven up char-grilled meats. Divine.
Almost immediately the mixed plate ($16) arrived. The plate is ideal if you want to sample the menu. It consisted of two falafel, a kibbeh, a piece of char-grilled chicken, a kuftah, some pieces of shish kebab, puddles of homous and baba ghanoush and tabouli.
I have to start with the falafel - they would have to be the best I have tasted anywhere. Firm, crisp and crunchy on the outside yet light and moist inside. They are seriously, seriously good.
The lamb shish kebab is tender and again has that wonderful char flavour to it (as does the piece of char-grilled chicken). The long rolled piece of spiced lamb kuftah is magical - a grilled finger of minced lamb blended with sweet spices.
Kebbeh is possibly the most famous of dishes in Syria (and yes, it originated in Aleppo). This egg-shaped morsel has a shell made out of ground bulghur and filled with minced lamb which has an array of sweet spices added to it (like allspice, cumin and cinnamon). It is then lightly fried so you have a firm and crisp shell embracing the meat filling. Jasmin makes it well.
I'm not let down by the dips and the tabouli - these are dishes that must be done well or they will destroy the meal (and a restaurant), as, like with the chicken, you can combine these with your meats in the bread. The two dips are excellent - they are smooth and packed full of flavour. The tabouli has a mountain of parsley and unlike variations that you get elsewhere (greasy kebab shops or supermarkets) it is dressed properly - not too much lemon juice or oil - the freshly chopped ingredients are the heroes here and don't need to be disguised.
With a tummy on the brink of bursting it was hard not to stop eating with so much good food around and, alas, a couple of pieces of grilled chicken (albeit small), were left on the plate. I paid the bill and picked up some takeaway tabouli (I can't make it for the price and could never replicate its greatness) for something light for dinner but also to keep alive the memory of Jasmins. read more