The Chora Church is one of the most amazing old churches I have ever seen. As with all the high traffic tourist sites, it's better in the off season. I would read up on it before you go, and bring a good guide book, Rick Steve's Istanbul is by far the best for Chora, but Lonely Planet and National Geographic are pretty good too. The acme of Byzantine art was the wall mosaic and there is no better existing example anywhere. St. Savior in Chora is now known locally as Kariye Camii because it's a hybrid museum and active mosque. The church is just inside the city walls, so I would spend a day starting here and then do Rick Steve's "City Walls and Neighborhoods walk" but it will take longer than he projected if you have the sort of wanderlust and curiosity that makes you take longer and of course even longer if you have to make friends with all the cats along the way. Note that all the guidebooks reporting free WCs here or at any mosque are already out of date, you have to pay a small fee so I learned to carry small Turkish bills. The current church building dates back to 1100, damaged by Crusaders (not the Motown stars) in the 1200s, reconstructed by patron Theodore Metochites. prime minister of the Byzantine Empire. In the early 16th century during Ottoman rule, the church was converted to a mosque and a minaret was added. After the East West split of the Christian Church, Occidental Christianity art and architecture became provincial, local customs, local saints, local interpretations. But the Eastern Orthodox Church remained consistent across centuries and the artistry here became an archetype. Eastern Orthodox churches are adorned with flourishes and decorations that echo the beautiful old mosaics here. Their goal was to show how God became mortal on behalf of human beings, transforming Oriental liturgy into reality. Don't compare the superior work here with the Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna (6th century), different epochs, different theodicy. I'm Buddhist so I needed a primer on Christian legend and scripture but even given that, remember, the past is foreign. Included in these mosaics are apocryphal writings, then part of cannon in practice. The narthexes, inner and outer, contain most of the mosaics. Next to the nave is a side chapel (parekklesion) with frescoes. I especially liked the syncretic Mary depictions that worked in the pre-Christian Anatolian mother-goddess. and the biblical genealogy of Christ on a ceiling dome. You can make out Adam standing on a snake (the ancestry is in Aramaic Greek but many have attributes depicted, it's all in the flutes emanating away from, or actually leading up the Christ), Noah carrying an ark. Near are depictions of Christ's miracles. You are going to need Ibuprofen handy because you're going to be craning your neck a lot. Actually in Turkiye you can get Dexofen, a safer more effective NSAID that is not available in the USA, which works well on neck pain. Also don't miss the "Dormition of the Virgin," I guess Mary didn't ever die, she went to sleep forever, but this mosaic depicts her final bed. It's an easy bus ride, go to the Egrikapi Gate and it's a short walk. Istanbul buses are easy, comfortable, and cheap. It's a little intimidating taking a bus when you don't speak any Turkish, but they can easily read your destination from your phone, just show it to a bus worker at the depot and they will get you on the right bus. They are more helpful than Chicago Transit Authority or Milwaukee County Transit Authority workers by far. read more

See all

Kariye Müzesi, known in English as Chora Church, is a beautiful museum in Istanbul. It has, throughout its history, been a Christian church, a mosque, a museum, and now it's status is somewhat up in the air as the President has tried to return it to a mosque. My mom and I visited in 2013, and for both of us it was our favorite part of our trip to Istanbul. It's small, to be sure. But the disgruntled reviewer surprises me a lot, because... yes, they are real mosaics. And the 14th century is pretty far back? I mean it's not like they were created a couple years back. I wasn't around 700 years ago, and I'm pretty impressed by things that are still this well preserved after that long a time, but to each their own I guess. Although the mosaics are only a paltry 700 years old, there has been a church here since the 4th century. The mosaics were covered over during its time as a mosque, and the art restored after it became a museum. The stories told are some of the most ancient versions of Christian stories. There's a portion of the mosaic that shows Joseph's son leading Mary along as she rides a donkey, and that was my favorite part of the mosaic. Mom and I took at least a couple hours walking through the narthex and pareclession. We examined the various parts of the mosaic and the building extensively. In addition to the art, I have to say part of the experience for me was the awe of being in a place that has been a spiritual place for thousands of people over the course of the last 1700 years. If I visit Istanbul again and Chora is open for visitors, it will definitely be on my list of places to visit, and I would absolutely recommend it to anyone who is interested in history, art, or religion. Review #626 7/2002 read more

Visiting Kariye Camii or the Church of the Chora is an amazing opportunity to see one of the largest and well preserved collections of Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul. The church/mosque can trace its roots back to the 4th century AD, but the current building was built in the 11th century. The mosaics and frescoes that chronicle the lives of Mary and Jesus were added in the 14th century. When the church was converted to a mosque in the 16th century, the mosaics and frescoes were covered with dirt, paint and plaster and then, hidden from sight, eventually forgotten. Ironically, this helped to preserve and protect them from the elements and vandalism. When the building was converted to a museum in the mid 19th century, the mosaics and frescoes were rediscovered. Renovation and restorations are ongoing and only part of the church is available for viewing currently. We were lucky to visit on a day where there were no tour buses, so our guide, Ensar from Istanbulday, was really able to give us a private tutorial on the progression of the New Testament and Apocrypha stories. From the life of Mary as a child to motherhood to her deathbed to Joseph to the saints and the miracles of Jesus, this was a way for the church visitors to see the biblical stories unfold while visiting or praying at this church. In a time where many people could not read, it was a powerful way to communicate with the members of the church. This was one of the highlights of our trip to Istanbul. We walked through the neighborhoods to get here, but you could easily take a bus or taxi. I would take a tour or buy a guidebook to understand the mosaics. The Museum Pass Istanbul is good here or daily admission is 54,00 TL about $10. read more

See all

Another great museum experience in Chora Church, or as the locals call it Kariye Muzesi! This church sits in the outermost western area of Fatih, so I'd suggest cabbing it if you are staying in Sulthanamet - It's not really close to much ... but it's time on a plane train or in an automobile is way more than worth it! Little history lesson here: The original church was built in the 5th century, and it used to be outside the walls of Constantinople (now Istanbul) - who knows when Constantine the Great reigned? Very good - up to 337. When Theodosius II built his walls in 414, the church was included just inside the walls. So, my point here is that what's really great about the location is that you can see the famed Theodosian Walls if you visit - they are just up the street (2-birds-with-1-stone kinda thing). They're way cool! Chora Church, much like the many churches turned mosques in this area, had fallen to acts of the Iconoclasm (just in case: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iconoclasm), and many of the frescoes and mosaics were covered with plaster. It's a shame because restoring them has taken their toll. I would have to say, however, that of all the places we visited in Turkey, the art in Chora Church was the most plentiful and best kept, making this site not to be missed. Walking through this church is a history lesson in itself - The Nativity, the journey of the Magi, the flight into Egypt, the Second coming of Christ, the Resurrection, the many saints, Christ the Pantocrator and the account of the life of the Virgin Mary, are among the many mosaics and frescoes in the Church. In contrast to visiting the Hagia Sophia and other sites in Istanbul, the staff is pretty relaxed at Chora - they don't want you snapping flash fueled photos, but there is lots of light, which allows you to get some great pics if you know how to play with that natural light. The grounds are beautiful as well - spend some time in the garden if you are there in Spring (http://bit.ly/12vAOAf). While they have the audio tours available for rent, I did not take part in that, so I can't comment on the value and validity, however, I did hear others stating that the audio tours at Chora were worth it. Istanbul itself is pretty hilly, and Chora Church sits up high. If you have the opportunity, the right shoes, and the weather is nice, take the walk back DOWN into town when you are done. The views are amazing. read more

See all

One of my favorite experiences in Istanbul. During a week in Istanbul, this was at the top in terms of highlights. We took a cab to the site, as we were advised this would be the easiest way to visit this church, located just outside the old city walls. The mosaics in this church are absolutely stunning, especially considering the fact that they were covered up after the church was converted to a mosque. The pictures you take or see will not do the appropriate amount of justice to the sheer beauty of the artwork. We visited in the late afternoon during the week, and we pretty much had the place to ourselves. I suppose the fact that this site is off the main tourist path provides an opportunity to experience the place without throngs of tourists. It was extremely peaceful inside, and you could really spend time inspecting the artwork on the ceilings with no interruption. After paying the admission, we were provided with a small pamphlet which described the nature of the frescoes and mosaics, to provide deeper clarity on what we were looking at. Take the cab ride and go visit this wonderful artifact. You will not be disappointed. read more

See all

Museums have their own energy. History smells and history has always intrigued me, I want to go back in time when I touch history. read more

Many people are content with the beauty of today's Ayasoyfa, but history nerds like me lament at how much more beautiful Ayasoyfa must have been before it was vandalized by Byzantine iconoclasts and censored by Ottoman conquerors. Fortunately, we can still get a glimpse of the former glory of Ayasoyfa through Kariye Muzesi! Kariye Muzesi (Chora Museum) is formerly a Byzantine church that shared the common fate of being converted to a mosque, so like the mosaics in Ayasoyfa, the Chora mosaics were also plastered because of the Islamic ban on depictions of people. However, when the plaster were removed after Chora was converted to a museum, most of the mosaics were intact! In fact, Chora now has one of the world's best preserved collection of Byzantine mosaics. You can step inside without knowing about Mary and Jesus, and you will still be in awe at the beautiful glimmer that shines from the golden mosaics inside the dull-looking church exterior. From the majestic Christ Pantocrator mosaic at the entrance to the mosaic cycle of Mary's life on the ceiling, the mosaics of Chora create almost a surreal space that surrounds all beholders in a seemingly divine light from reflection. Furthermore, how incredible that these vivid portraits were composed of countless tiles that are as small as our fingernails! While Chora is certainly smaller than Ayasoyfa, Chora is nonetheless no less majestic or magical thanks to its more complete mosaic collection. You can imagine how much more beautiful the Ayasoyfa in the past must be if the mosaics in Chora could make the smaller church this gorgeous, and you can also thank our fortunes that we can still witness this timeless treasure. Unfortunately, Chora is relatively isolated from the major landmarks, but if you have more than a day in Istanbul, you should make your way to Chora, which is only a bus ride away from the Grand Bazaar and thus a short journey to go back in time in order to see a Byzantine beauty. I made the foolish mistake of walking uphill to Chora and almost regretted my insistence of going there, but I later believe the journey was well worth it when I saw this marvel with my own eyes. read more

See all

It's a rip-off! First of all, there is only 2 tiny rooms with hardly anything to see! And IF the mosaics are real, then they only go back to the 14th Century. I'd happily pay the huge fee if the mosaics were from like the 2nd century or something, but it's not. I was literally in there for 2 minutes. SAVE YOUR MONEY! read more

Kariye Müzesi - Chora Museum - Museums Near Me - Istanbul, 34

Chora Church is off the beaten path, but absolutely worth going to if you are interested in Byzantine history and old artwork. The original church on this site was built in the 4th century apparently, but much of the current building is from the 9th. Eventually the church was made into a mosque and the old art plastered over - and now it is a museum and they are preserving the old wall murals. It is absolutely stunning and extremely interesting being able to examine artwork that old, and some of it is remarkably well-preserved. There are also outdoor grounds you can walk around and relax in, and a gift shop with lots of interesting artifacts and knick knacks. Almost best of all, it was not crowded at all here - no busloads of Chinese tourists getting in the way of photographs or blocking anyone's view. Just quiet and peaceful. Not to sound like some kind of corporate shill or like I'm trying to push products on people, but I really recommend anyone visiting Istanbul for tourism to pick up the Rick Steve's guide to the city. It was invaluable to me, and I don't think I would have heard of Chora or bothered to go out there had he not talked about it in his book. It is a fantastic guide that goes over plenty of interesting history, points out less touristy sites, and details a bunch of "walks" in the various areas of the city for tourists to walk around and explore. My visit here is one of the best examples I can think of his guidebook pushing me in the right direction. This place is amazing and well worth a visit. Agree with an earlier reviewer though that it probably isn't the best place for children. read more

The Chora Church was recommended as something we should do in our last few days in Istanbul, as being a favorite of our host there. The Church itself was pretty off the beaten path but there were plenty of touristy shops right outside the church. The cost of this Museum was 15TL. When you walk in your go into the garden and then enter from the side of the church. One thing I found here was that getting pictures of things wasn't too hard in comparison since, most of the mosaics are on the ceiling. Then unique feature of the Chora church is the story of the Virgin Mary, which is apparently only told here. I would recommend doing a little reading before you go in unless, you're paying for a guided tour because there aren't many signs or explanations of the tapestries. One you shouldn't miss is when you go into the largest room turn around and check out the mosaic over the door. It is one of the death of the Virgin Mary, which Jesus standing over her holding a baby, which is supposed to be Mary's Soul. This place was defiantly worth the stop, just make sure you plan getting there, then getting to wherever else you want to go after, we decided to walk around a bit and ended up walking through some shady streets on our way to our next stop. read more

This is an amazing place. It is one of the most beautiful examples of Byzantine Church. Taking an audio guide is highly recommended. It presents all the mosaics in a sequence which forms the events of lives of Joseph, Mary and Jesus. This is much smaller than the Hagia Sophia but more beautiful frescoes and mosaics inside make up for it. This definitely deserves a piece of your time in Istanbul. read more

If you visit only one old building in Istanbul, make it this one. It is a little out of the way, but well worth it for an opportunity to see the remains of the mosaics which the Byzantine era is noted for. It is affordable, and far less crowded than some other attractions (although admittedly we were there on a Saturday afternoon in December). It is a very beautiful place and you get as much time as you like to look at the art, most of which is in quite good condition because it was roughly plastered over rather than destroyed as it was in so many churches. The lighting was a bit dim, which made it difficult to take pictures since you couldn't use a flash, but presumably this is required to protect the paint. It was still well enough lit that you could view most of it. However, most of the best examples are well above eye level, so you need to crane your neck to see them. I found myself wishing there was a scaffolding to allow me to get closer to the ceiling work, because details were lost by distance. I suppose I would have been equally happy with a few benches or cushions which would allow me to lie down to contemplate the works. It is a bit light on the details of the specific pieces or the history of the era in which it was built, but if you've taken the time to do some basic research before visiting you won't feel that more plaques are needed. Most of the walls are not protected, although there are guards to prevent people from touching them. If you visit with small children you will probably be actively engaged in keeping them from touching things and they probably won't find the experience very interesting. read more

Similar to the Hagia Sophia - a Byzantine church turned into an Ottoman mosque and now a secular museum. I found this museum to be richer in terms of information and mosaics than the Hagia Sophia and also less crowded. It is certainly smaller, but the amount of Byzantine artwork and its condition was superlative. Situated in a beautiful neighborhood outside central Instanbul, you can easily explore the area and enjoy the different scenery and change of pace, which we appreciated. Well worth the side-trip out here. read more

In late November,I visited this museum of Byzantine Christian Art.I spent about 3 hours at this museum.Considering the 20 Turkish Lira that I paid for admission,there was insufficient information in English included with the price of admission. I needed to pay extra for satisfactory information using an audio device(the sound was too low).The lighting in this museum was unsatisfactory.You need a flashlight to fully appreciate their splendid mosaics.I found the staff to have a perfunctory attitude to the visitors.Nevertheless,I appreciated the following Byzantine Christian mosaics;"Christ as Pantocrater","Theodore Metocrites Presenting Model of Church to Christ"(11th Century),"Christ Resurrects Adam and Eve from Sarcophagi","Saint Peter",and "Deisis".This museum is located close to the Edirnekapi Metro Station..There is an interesting,beautiful mosque very close to this Metro station,Mihrimah Sultan Mosque designed by famous architect,Sinan. read more