Whenever somewhere serves me a meal which I feel necessitates a review that evening, their job is done. I think the wine's wearing off enough for me to be able to type this coherently (as tempting as a stream of consciousness review would be), and I'm not going through enough of a food coma to be put out of action. Which is good, I am *perfectly* full right now. Couldn't ask for anything more.
I won't comment much on the environment here - it's everything that I'd expect from a decent restaurant of this type. From entrance to exit, I found the staff to be extremely warm and definitely put a nice gloss on my whole experience. I find that a lot of places have polite-but-standoffish service which is fine - functional and pleasant, but I dunno. I felt that the atmosphere here was just that bit more personable.
We went for the tasting menu: 2 starters, 2 mains, 2 puddings. I'll say it now before my dish-by-dish rundown: every dish was a delight - simple (in a manner of speaking), yet extremely well constructed - and I felt that the transition from course to course was perfect somehow. Like a well thought-out mixtape. As such, it's definitely been the most satisfying meal I've had in the last year, hands down. The time between courses was pretty short until dessert, oddly there was a pretty long gap between the two desserts, not that I minded too much.
Predinner: foccacia crisps with pea puree. Mm. very thin, crispy sheets of focaccia, a delicious pea puree. A good pea puree is wonderful and this one was absolutely spot on. Nom.
Course I: asparagus with toasted quinoa, egg yolk, and hazelnut. The asparagus itself was nice, if not the most flavourful in the world. Everything else? The toasted quinoa added a nice crunch and nuttiness, assisted by the hazelnut. The egg yolk? The egg yolk. So. Good. Both delicious and with a consistency I've never had before, more like butter than egg.
Course II: thin slices of veal rump with morels, parmesan, hazelnut, and peas. The texture of the veal was wonderful, and the morel-parmesan combination was extremely good, balanced out with the sweet peas. Perfect combination of flavour. If I had to choose, this was probably the standout dish, but really, it's not very relevant.
Course III: sea trout with pickled beetroot and watercress, and smoked eel on a new potato with vinegared shallots, topped with watercress and eel scratchings (!). I love sea trout when it's done this way. So easy to cut and the texture and flavour were great. The eel scratchings were a great touch and provided a great crunch and a bit of fishiness, without being overpowering. The smoked eel bit of the dish was similar to herring potato salad that's often found in Northern France. I loved the shallots (the acidity came a little bit close to overpowering the dish, but they were just right. And yummy), and the paper-thin eel provided a touch of smokiness.
Course IV: 55-day aged pork on celeriac, with a charred pear. I was sceptical about aged pork, but this was delicious, particularly the aged fat. Mm. Unfortunately my mum found a bit of gristle in hers (the only black mark of the evening) which shouldn't really happen in a place like this. However, the texture of the pork (like all the meat here) was absolutely wonderful, a little bit of bite, but falling apart in the mouth. Om. And the crackling. Perfect crackling sitting at the perfect point between gooey and crunchy.
Course V: vanilla parfait topped with mango, white chocolate and lime. A light dessert, great balance of flavours. A really nice follow-up to the pork.
Course VI: chocolate pave, salted caramel ice cream, hazelnut cream, lime zest. Mmmnom. This dish avoided being too heavy, and the hint of lime, whilst not adding much in terms of overall flavour, added just a little bit to cut through the chocolate. The salted caramel ice cream and hazelnut went perfectly too.
Memorable. The tasting menu was £60, so pretty much in line with what I'd expect, not cheap, but I would come here again in a heartbeat (if I had the cash...) - I often have tasting menus with the odd nice-but-not-that-memorable courses, but this one's burned in my memory and I'm salivating a bit writing this. The accompanying wines were also good (not that that's my forte, and I'm not keen to speculate over how much they were), and I particularly enjoyed the Languedoc Maury red dessert wine. Whilst each dish was excellent, the whole thing ended up being greater than the sum of its parts and it's definitely one of the best meals I've had in recent memory and I'm wondering now when the next trip will be... read more