A downscale place right next to ultra-exclusive Belgrano.
Grungy and pedestrian - but surprisingly decent.
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The great restaurant neighborhoods in Buenos Aries are either the old traditional neighborhoods, or super-trendy Palermo.
There is a section of Palermo called Palermo Hollywood - but Hollywood captures the feel of all of Palermo.
Those neighborhoods get a lot of foot traffic.
The streets are lively.
* * *
When you get to the neighborhoods of gracious old money,
Or the neighborhoods of mansions and political power,
The restaurants disappear.
So does the foot traffic.
The major figures of Argentina live behind closed doors.
Their great houses are magnificent.
Their staff can prepare any delicacy in the world.
Their meals are eaten in stately dining rooms.
They live in constant danger.
They keep large security staffs.
If they go out recreationally, they go to private homes or exclusive clubs,
Their limousines - armored. Their bodyguards - armed.
There is not much casual foot traffic by the mansions.
The pedestrians you see are either
tourists passing through,
the servants of the great houses, or
the people who work in the gas stations and supermarkets nearby.
Who eats in the restaurants near the mansions?
The house help and the store help.
* * *
La Farola is a small local chain of restaurants.
There are maybe 15 or 20 of them in the city.
They are down at heel but they hold their end up.
* * *
I staggered in there because it was hot, and my feet hurt, and I wanted a beer.
The fact that La Farola was about to show the football game made it even more irresistible.
Technically what they served me was "not so great".
An Imperial brand lager beer in a can.
Frozen ravioli with frozen bolognese sauce.
There was mold damage on one of the walls.
I had a wonderful afternoon.
* * *
The ravioli was made with stronger cheese than we use in the United States.
I made my peace with it.
The beer was light and tasteless.
I made my peace with that too.
Soon everything just made sense.
That ravioli got me through most of the game.
The chair was comfortable.
The staff at La Farola were super nice.
The football game was a good one.
I was happy just beaching out.
* * *
Should you go down to the edge of Belgrano to seek out La Farola?
Probably not.
But it is a decent honest place - that offers fair value at a reasonable price.
I was taken care of by good people. read more