Lake Chelan & Stehekin are my jam.
Since 2012, I have hiked the Lakeshore Trail of Chelan to Stehekin (unsucessfully in 2012, and successfully ever since) atleast 1-2 times every year. I actually love the hike, it's an easy way to bag 19-miles, but I've definitely been a creature of habit. This year I decided to jump out of my comfort zone and research another way to reach the isolated hamlet of Stehekin. I bring you the equation of:
War Creek Trail + Purple Creek Trail = Stehekin!
I had only seen this route on maps, and did not see much information on the actual route of hiking from the War Creek Trailhead all the way to Stehekin and back. I wasn't able to get good info on the mileage, some apps had estimates of 15-miles each way, and with that, I thought "Ok that sounds do-able." So I set out to make the trek from a Saturday morning to a Sunday--I had plans to camp in Stehekin.
On an early Saturday morning I set out up the valley of War Creek valley. I should first say that this valley has suffered from fires over the years and you can certainly see this as you walk through stretches of ravaged burnt landscapes. And this trail clearly does not see a lot of traffic because the underbrush have taken over in the absence of trees. So be ready for lots of bushwhackin' on the trail! The fairly flat first 6-miles gives way to some very rough burnt tree falls between mile #7 & #8 (before this stretch one can clearly see the work others have valiantly performed to clear the trail.) I should also say that in mid-July you will also find this valley filled with mosquitoes. So downed trees and bloodthirsty mosquitoes await you.
All is not all gloom & doom in that once you are past mile 8, you begin to enter higher elevations and begin to enter subalpine areas not touched by fire. And then War Creek Pass looms over you and approaches fast!
All the lost blood and sore muscles are totally worth it from War Creek Pass---at the top you are in the Juanita Lake basin: And It Is GORGEOUS! In july you will see vibrant wildflowers at your feet swooning you. And I can't imagine what it's like in Fall for there clearly are families of larch trees peppering this idyllic subalpine basin.
But you push on. The reward beckons in the form of a burger, beer, and all the cinnamon rolls you can eat 5,700' below in Stehekin. So make your way through the 1-mile wonderland at the top to the other end of it where you find Purple Pass. Here you are rewarded with a majestic view of craggy mountaintops and the dramatic fall down the Chelan valley to the lake & Stehekin. Here is where you will want to let out a scream Just to do it, for you have trekked 11-miles. Only 7 miles down left!
I must admit, this is where the beginning of the errors in my ways starts. I miscalculated the hike down. I thought it was anything ranging from 3-miles to 6-miles...it ends up being 7-miles (for a 1-way mileage of 18 miles!). And my agenda of setting up camp in Stehekin also quickly eroded as I came to find that all the camping spots were taken.
Now I had a tough choice. Do I try to stay down along the Chelan Lakeshore and find a place to camp, or do I give up that idea and begin the trip back?? It was about 3pm when I reached Stehekin, I just missed lunch & dinner started at 5pm. I eventually decided to reserve a burger dinner, and hike back up Purple Creek Trail that evening. I would have loved a trip to the Stehekin Bakery, but there was no way I'd walk there. I thought of renting a bike, but I had no cash or check. So the cinnamon rolls would only exist in my dreams that night.
Once my burger was in my belly, I strapped my backpack on and began stacking more miles to the 18-already hiked....BUT....this was the hardest portion of the hike: 5,674' up to Purple Pass over 7 miles---and it was 6pm!!
I'll spare you the whining, but the hike up was all it lived up to be. I had 1.5L, but a few miles up, I ran out of water, so I ended up needing to go off-trail at a switchback to filter some water.
While I was dying during the last mile, at about 11pm, I was losing hope, BUT my guide illuminated the home stretch: Enter NEOWISE. My comet friend helped me make it to Purple Pass. And here is where I set up camp under headlamp.
The next morning was the hike out. It was mostly downhill (not that steep) and fairly uneventful---I knew I'd have to navigate through the fallen trees again, but it wasn't tough. After hitting the trail at 7:30am, I made it back to the trailhead just after 1pm (but I did go skinny dipping at one time when it was getting super hot! I was fine with that since I had not seen a single soul on the entire 36 miles of trail.).
[HD video of entire trip: https://youtu.be/RdnuAvuXwlQ ] read more