Learning of my planned trip to Brazil a friend implored me to "eat Feijoada on Saturday" which sent me into a tailspin of research. Yes, you can find many places to feast on Feijoada any old day of the week but tradition dictates it be consumed on a Saturday and there's many restaurants which serve it only on that day. In fact, the first such Saturday-only place my son and I tried had already run out even though it was not yet 8 p.m.
Which brings me to Lanches Lacoste, possibly the most authentic place I ate at during my entire time in Brazil.
Lanches Lacoste is the type of casual, busy, corner luncheonette you find all over Brazil right down to the guy who stood behind my chair drinking beer from the time I sat down until the time I left. He was taking in the world from this little corner joint.
Despite being first offered a seat in an odd, enclosed and lifeless room I opted for a seat out front, abutting the sidewalk. The waitress knew we were there for Feijoada and explained in a way that my Spanish-fluent son understood, that servings were large and one order (BRL$30, about $8 US) would suffice for the two of us. She did not lie.
Wow. Feijoada, when consumed at Lanches Lacoste, is both delicious and filling. It was also a new taste sensation, something I'd never had before despite all of these years here on Earth.
The Feijoada was accompanied by a huge cold beer (BRL $10, about $3 US) naturally, and it was the ideal accompaniment.
A perfect meal at a perfectly authentic place in a nice part of town. Cheap too, ridiculously so. My son wound up consuming Feijoada twice more, not on Saturdays, in other parts of the country. It was never as good as it was here nor was it Saturday.
For an authentic Brazilian experience, eat Feijoada on Saturday. For the most authentic Feijoada eat it at Lanches Lacoste. Sit outside, enjoy the passers-by, and pay no mind to the swaying guy standing behind you with his beer. It's Saurday, it's Brazil. read more