Sitting in a dark and humid apartamento round a little table eating sfogliatelle the size (and…read moreweight!) of bricks with two Sofia Lauren look-alikes espousing the virtues of our sfogliatelle while the radio murmers "honesty is such a lonely word" against the hum of scooters and the constant din of inconsequential arguments drifting from the street. A scene like this can only happen in Naples. The substantial yet delicate (it's the subtle hint of orange blossom that does me in!) sfogliatelle held in such high esteem? From the age old sfogliate Napoletane, Pintauro across from the elegant Galleria Umberto (http://www.qype.co.uk/place/80613-Galleria-Umberto-I-Neapel) . And what could make such a deliciously Neapolitan moment even more luscious? To get up from that little table amble down the apartamento's half-finished stairwell and trot along the cobbled streets with these belle napolitane , pass the shrines and the trash to another little table at a quaint and noisy pizzeria (http://www.qype.co.uk/place/576785-Manfredi-Naples?hide_related=true) where alici and pizza fritta and glorious moscardini affrogati await!

Pintauro has existed in this location since the 18whatevers and for good reason. This is the best…read moreplace for traditional Neapolitan pastries such as sfogliatelle, caprese, mostaccioli, roccoco' (at Christmastime only) and others. I make a pilgrimage here everytime I'm in town.