Mount Lagazuoi is a prominent peak and popular destination in the heart of the Dolomites, with…read morestunning views and an interesting history. During WW1, the precipitous southern side formed a border between the warring forces of the Austria-Hungarian Empire and Italy. The Italians, in an attempt to undermine the Austrian emplacements above, built a series of tunnels inside the cliffs. These were abandoned after the war, falling into disuse. But the tunnels were restored In the 1990s for exploration by visitors.
At present, no tickets or passes are required to see the tunnels. But visitors will need a little extra gear. The tunnels are classified as "via ferrata" (iron road) since they are equipped with steel cables. However, they are not treacherous enough to require clip-ins or other climbing gear. Visitors can either ascend or descend the tunnels, which run approx 1 km through the mountain.
On morning 4 of our trek on the AV1, our group decided to do the "easier" version of the tunnel tour, after first taking a cable car to the top. (We left our packs behind at a rifugio below). Suggested gear included: a headlamp (check), good shoes (check), gloves (check), and a helmet (nope; but we didn't really need one). A light jacket was also useful for the cooler temps inside. After first descending about 50 meters on hiking trails, we encountered signs of the old Austrian trenches and emplacements. After another ten minutes of hiking, we entered our first tunnel.
Once inside, we had a fun, fascinating, and eerie adventure. It was pitch black, slightly damp, and the temperature dropped 5-10 degrees. Sturdy stairs made the going easy enough, and there were also handy cables to grab - quite useful for the slipperier spots. Every 100 m or so there was a peak-through window to the outside. We also encountered several, preserved remnants of the war, including: a bunk room, an old machine shop, a kitchen, plus various carved-out rooms and side passages of unknown purpose. Cool as F. We saw a few longer branch-offs that invited further exploring, but we chose to continue downwards. Eventually we emerged onto an exposed trail which led the rest of the way to the pass below. We were glad to finish the tunnels when we did, since by that point a throng of hikers were climbing up from below.
Though I had been initially skeptical of the tunnel-tour, it ended up being another one of the highlights of my vacation in the Dolomites. I cannot recommend it highly enough, especially for history buffs (and those with a love of exploration). If I ever return, I would certainly go again.
