This is one of those experiences you'll never forget. Deep in the French banlieue there lies the…read morelargest pagoda temple in Europe which took over 20 years to build (many spent dormant, I believe due to lack of funds). It is clear this is a labor of love, with high-ranking Buddhists coming great distances to visit/bless the project.
As of May 2016 it is open to the public for a few different things including lunch on Sundays. I was lucky to get to bring my 5 year old son and some Franco-American friends to lunch with me yesterday. Reservations essential.
We experienced the warmest welcome I've had in the longest time. Another mother befriended me, explained how the temple works, how the communal meal will work, and the reasoning behind it (basically sharing Vietnamese culture in the middle of France). While we chatted my son quickly made friends with the other boys his age and ran off to play in the open space of the auditorium.
There were four long communal tables of about 50 people each. We were seated in the middle of a middle table. To my right was a party of 29 Vietnamese, to my left was a Franco-Spanish couple who live across the street. At each reserved spot was our meal set out for us, there are microwaves in the corner to re-heat as necessary and soup is served right before the meal so it is hot. Unlimited tea and coffee in the corner.
We started with the soup which was a light vegetable broth with vegetables, potatoes, and tofu cubes. Of all the meal it was the least interesting to me, but it was hot and that was good. Next we had a grated carrot salad that had mint and cashew making it beyond delicious (my American friend's favorite). We had a standard tofu vegetable stir fry with rice noodles (her French husband's favorite), then a tofu-mushroom cake with vermicelli and fresh cilantro and spicy peppers that was so good I bought some more to take home from the to-go counter they also operate from within the temple. Dessert was a bean and tapioca pudding with coconut milk. Everything was delicious and my carnivore friends declared themselves sated but feeling virtuous, this food (and setting) was perfect to refresh the body and spirit.
The boys had, by this time, grown tired of sitting at the table and were jumping off the edge of the stage and batting at a large bunch of balloons that had been hung from the ceiling. An adult came over to chide them, but then with a twinkle in his eyes, pulled out a pair of scissors and cut down a balloon for each of them. They played the rest of the meal at bopping the balloons around the room, and everyone was happy.
It took us a while to find out who we needed to pay for our meal, my French friend asked one woman who responded in English that she doesn't know any French, in the end we found the man in charge and paid our ten euro each. A spectacular deal at twice that price.
The meal finally ended for good when we heard drums and went out to see 'dragons' dancing in the courtyard. The children got a chance to each beat the drum, some moms were enlisted too. We then went up to visit the altar, and then we all went home happy to have shared this moment together.