The entrance line is long and slow-moving.
Once you get onto the tour, it's like you're on a conveyor belt -- no place to sit and think about what you're seeing, just stay within the narrow roped-off areas and keep moving folks.
We did get the audio guide (got one to share so that one person would listen while the other person looked around and then switched roles). Fairly interesting explanations of stuff.
It was interesting to see the throne room where Spanish royalty once held court. A little detail that was in the Rick Steves tourbook (but I don't think in the audio guide) is that each monarch actually gets his or her own new throne. So the current thrones are not that old since they were built for the current monarch. I wonder where the old thrones are kept? They probably have a special room for that somewhere off the tour.
You may also get a stiff neck from craning your head back all the time to stare at the ceiling, because some of the most interesting artwork (frescoes) is painted up there, including several by the Venetian painter Tiepolo.
The dining table is enormous. I think it seats ~140 people. I believe the king and queen sit in the center, so if you are way down at the end of the table you probably don't have much of a chance to exchange pleasantries with them. (Notice I used present tense. Yep, Spain still has a monarchy and I believe they still hold official functions in this palace a number of times per year, even though they actually don't live full-time in the palace anymore, but in a mansion somewhere nearby.)
Speaking of which, the Rick Steves guidebook says that the palace has more than 2,000 rooms. I find that VERY hard to imagine. Yes, it's a big building. But only a few stories high. Thousands of rooms? I'd like to get confirmation of that from another source. (Checked Wikipedia and was taken to another dubious source - a random Yahoo answer to a 2004 question that says the palace has 2800 rooms. It also says the palace has only 870 windows. So we're supposed to believe that there are nearly 2,000 windowless rooms in the palace? Maybe they're referring to dungeon cells?)
The armor collection is impressive if you're into that sort of thing. I'm not really that interested, so to me it was just one suit of armor after another. As a history buff, I was much more interested to see some of the trophies from the Battle of Lepanto when the Christian navies defeated the Ottoman navy and thereby significantly reduced the threat that the Turks would conquer Europe. (A brother of one of the Spanish kings played an important leadership role as Christian admiral during that battle, which is how the trophies ended up in Madrid after the brother's death in a subsequent battle.)
Incidentally, Wikipedia also says that the palace covers an area of approximately 1,500,000 square feet. Since the average U.S. home is about 2,400 square feet, that means the palace has as much floor space as 625 American homes.
Apparently, as Spain continues to endure economic turmoil, there is an ongoing debate over the future of the monarchy - http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/29/world/europe/juan-carlos-i-seeks-redemption-for-spain-and-monarchy.html?pagewanted=all
Visiting this palace and seeing its opulence, then going outside and seeing all the boarded up buildings on the streets of Madrid, definitely could prompt one to ask if the monarchy continues to add value to the nation.
Of course, that is up to Spaniards to decide for themselves, and it will be interesting to see what course they chart.
ps - If you have a chance to visit around Spain's National Day (October 12, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiesta_Nacional_de_Espa%C3%B1a), you may be lucky enough to see some festive military parades. We were happy to have the chance to witness a ceremony where old-fashioned horse-drawn carriages with bewigged and costumed footmen go to pick up the ambassadors of some foreign nations and deliver them to the foreign ministry to present their credentials. Not the sort of thing you see every day!
pps - You will get yelled at if you try to take a photo. Try to turn this limitation into an opportunity and enjoy the opportunity to focus on the present moment without worrying about capturing the 'perfect shot' on your digital device. read more