POMPEII.
Sprawling at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, this…read moreancient city's almost instantaneous downfall has for centuries become engrained in historical texts on western civilization. Archaeological excavations, groundbreaking discoveries, romantic idealizations, movie storylines have all lent to a heightened air of mystique surrounding this locale.
Some logistical tips:
I) Arriving from Naples:
-- A) via public transit fastest is the local EAV commuter train Circumvesuviana from Porto Nolana, the 1st stop, or Napoli Centrale, the 2nd stop. Buy tickets the day of at the train station at ticket machines, for one way €3, round trip €6. A regular Trenitalia train is possible though these stop in the city center of modern Pompeii, east of the archaeological park, walkable in about 10 minutes to the eastern entrance though much less convenient. Check the schedule online; times don't always follow GMaps. I tried to get on the wrong train and the train platform staff directed me to the correct platform for a later departure. Trains get extremely crowded so don't expect seats for the 35 minute duration unless you get on at the first stop.
--B) by bus, via a couple types of buses; both bus stops aren't the easiest to locate if taking it one-way.
----1) local EAV buses (#5000 and 5020) run from Napoli Centrale and other stops in Naples' vicinity to bus stop a block south of the Piazza Esedra/Piazza Porta Marina entrance on local route SS18 to the Pompeii Archeological Park. Tickets need to be purchased in advance on the app, at a bus/train station, or on the bus using exact change. They will not stop if full.
----2) by private bus: ie. Flixbus etc. I booked Flixbus online back to Naples since I heard about an EAV train workers strike the afternoon I visited, €15.95 one-way and departed directly on the side of the road (Via Villa dei Misteri) opposite the Scavi di Pompeii train station. What wasn't clear is that when you exit the park, it's via the Piazza Esedra exit so you have to walk back toward the other entrance. Also Flixbus uses affiliates so read your ticket carefully for alternative bus company names, bc you won't see a Flixbus logo. Trip took about 1.5 hours as they stopped multiple places but it was more comfortable than the train.
--C) driving: probably the easiest though depends on where you're parking as the lot is very large and it can be up to a 10-12 minute walk to the Scavi di Pompeii entrance.
2) Tickets start at €20, booked in person or online by time slot. Definitely book in advance unless you have a museum pass of some sort (like a Naples Pass), then you can't book online and must queue at the ticket office which opens at 9am*. I arrived at 9:15-20am and waited for about 20min, with about 30ish people in front of me. There are bathrooms at the ticket office, one of a few locations on site. Headed straight into the park once procuring my ticket.**
Tickets to the "suburban" Villa di Diomede and Villa dei Misteri are a separate fee of €8 payable in cash or card at the gate to that section of the park, if it's not already included in your combo ticket. It's not included in the regular Naples Pass access.
Storage lockers are available for a fee. There's a bag size limit per their website but I did not see this being enforced.
FINALLY...getting to the site itself.
WOW. There is a lot to see. Barely doable in 4 hours at a brisk pace if you know where you're headed, though 5-6 hours be ideal and certainly you could spend a full day. An audio guide or tour guide is recommended though I bookmarked about two dozen individual sites on Gmaps in advance and used this the day of to guide my itinerary. Cell service can be spotty so download the map on your phone if you can. There are minimal bathroom and food/drink facilities on site, and you cannot leave and come back, so recommend bringing enough water and snacks.
Reading various threads online, there's a lot of hyping up the size, I think a) bc there's a huge variety of visitors w/a range of travel experience and fitness, b) the streets are all large stone hewn blocks so it's harder than walking on a paved road. For sense of comparison, the site is about 1/5 the area of Central Park. With so many buildings to check out, I can see how exploring inside with crowds adds to the time it takes to get around.
What's terrific is there are a lot of placards w/ info on individual dwellings or structures. Many have QR codes if you have decent reception. There are a couple formal museums, at the Palastre Grand and the Antiquarium.
The two suburban villas north of the main site were a further walk though worth it imho, being restored relatively recently, the Villa dei Misteri with brilliantly colored frescos related to an esoteric cult of Dionysus.
*Sneakily they don't mention this on the Naples Pass website or app...had to do some Reddit searches to figure this out.
**20K visitor limit per day, 15K in 1st half, 5K 2nd half, but they never max out.
