This is for the Loch Ness and the Highlands tour. The group was small - about 16 of us - which I absolutely prefer. Our guide's name was Mackenzie (Mac), and should we ever want another tour in Edinburgh, I'd request to be put on his tour in a heartbeat.
It's not that he got us from start to finish safe and sound (though that does count for a lot, right?), or that he kept us on schedule. Mac was funny. Mac was intelligent. Mac wore a kilt and had a thick Scottish accent. But most importantly, Mac was an excellent storyteller. He shared stories about the histories of the Clans, the battles that were fought and the impact on the countryside. He shared stories that could be corroborated, and he shared local myths and legends. But he didn't just tell the stories - no. That would be ordinary! Mac relived the stories, and had us reliving them right along with him. He wove sound effects, gestures (sometimes alarmingly so - 10 and 2, Mac, 10 and 2!) and music into the stories, and it was magical (or was that just me?)
He also dropped some knowledge on us in the form of "...and that's where the phrase [enter phrase here] comes from." I made notes of all the ones he mentioned, and fully intend to look them up. I hope he wasn't just blowing smoke up our crack. But hell, even if he was, he was such a great storyteller, I think I can forgive him!
Finally, Mac talked about how his company cares for the environment, which was great, but at every stop he showed that to be true for him, as well. He carried several empty trash bags and a trash-picker-upper, and at every stop picked up rubbish. I have to mention that because he wasn't doing it for accolades from the group. He did it because he loves the country, and hates that people are so careless with their litter. I find that to be highly commendable.
He also found a way to work in extra stops along the way, which allowed us to see and learn more about the lochs and Scotland. This is actually the biggest reason we were so exhausted. You wouldn't think that sitting in an air conditioned bus being driven around the Scottish countryside would be tiring, but Mac made us work. We'd drive, he'd pull over to tell us about the area then we'd get out for pictures and to hike.
We must have made four or five stops before actually getting to our first "real" stop, which was Rannoch Moor in the Highlands. This is what Mac called "the last great wilderness in Britain", and I really hope it stays that way. The pictures will not do it justice. Pictures will never be able to capture the depth of color or the expanse of nature. I know we've all experienced nature before - mountains, deserts, oceans, parks - but these places felt more...is "hushed" the right term? Battles have been fought on these lands - whole clans have been slaughtered and allegiances changed - and you can feel that in the air. Or maybe I'm just being a namby-pamby.
The biggest stop for this tour was, of course, Loch Ness. And I will say that it's not at all as I expected it to be. It's huge, yes, and very picturesque. But I was preparing myself for the visual and capital onslaught of a street or two full of "I SAW NESSIE!" merchandise. I was surprised to find that there were only two shops off the main drag, and that they kept their Nessie merchandise levels low.
We opted to skip the loch boat cruise in favor of having a nice lunch in town and touring the city of Fort Augustus. As I said, it was a beautiful day, so once we were full, we were able to walk along the Caledonian Canal down to the banks of the loch. It was on our way to the loch that we passed Mac, who had produced a small set of bagpipes from the bus and was camped out on a bench, playing his heart out.
At the shoreline, we paused to take it all in and, of course, pose for some pictures. The loch is the second largest in Scotland, though a claim can be made that it's the largest, when comparing volume. Lookit that - I just dropped some knowledge on y'all.
We didn't really have a whole lot of time at the loch - for those that took the boat tour, they basically got off the bus, waited for tickets, hopped on the boat, sailed around for an hour, got off the boat, and boarded the bus. I'm glad we decided to stay ashore, because we at least had a chance to explore.
We made several more stops on the way back to Edinburgh. At one point, Mac stopped us in an area he referred to as "Scotland as it was before humans came along to screw it up" - basically forest and streams and waterfalls. Pure beauty. This was the second time we came across Mac and his bagpipes, and it set the mood so perfectly. Here we were, viewing a fast-running stream that ended in a waterfall, surrounded by trees and blueberry bushes and heather, and you could hear the faint strains of a bagpipe on the wind.
This is the only tour I've been on where I was actually sad at the end. I wanted more stories, more Scottish countryside, more folklore. read more