Sure, I'd heard of the National Portrait Gallery many times upon my big move to Edinburgh. And I'm sure I'm not alone when I thought "yeah, fusty old pictures of bigwigs and prima donnas is just not my thing." So let me tell you how delightfully surprised I was by the actual contents of the SNPG.
We ventured on over when we just happened to be in the neighborhood, and between the spurts of mystifying snow-showers(?!) happening on a chilly, otherwise sunny day in April, we were happy to step inside just to get out of the cold firstly. When I managed to take my first look around, I immediately realized my idea of the SNPG was way, way off. This place is stunning!
The entry hall of the Gallery is absolutely gorgeous, no doubt about it. There's huge murals painted right on the walls to greet you, each one depicting famous scenes in U.K. history. I marveled at that artwork along with the busts displayed prominently in the well-lit windows. Not only is this room filled with art, but the architecture is gorgeous, framing said artwork with wooden arches and gleaming wood. It's really a site to behold--the perfect entryway to a portrait gallery, although that said, I haven't been to many to say otherwise!
If lovely murals and architecture aren't quite your thing, no worries. There's loads of interesting busts of famous figures to spend some time contemplating (or just appreciating their magnificently detailed hair and beards). Not only that, but if you venture into the austere library, you can find some phrenological castings of real people's faces, some made in life, some made in death. Two of interest were the men who provided some of the cadavers (some dug up from the grave, some sent to the grave themselves) to those studying anatomy when it was prohibited to study on the dead. I found it incredibly interesting to see such a thing.
I was even more impressed when during my visit, I stumbled upon the "Ponte City" exhibit on the lives of those living in a towering, brutalist apartment structure in Johannesburg. Once designed for the wealthy, seeing the fragments (photographs, notes, poetry, even drawings) of those having lived there as Ponte spiraled into crime and abandonment was nothing short of fascinating. This was one of the most interesting exhibits I can recall having seen. I really even struggle to describe it now.
The top floors are dedicated to the more classical, historical portraits from famous artists in history. These are lovely, expansive things of kings in all their glory, queens with all their bling prominently displayed, and creepy baby-adults. Okay, yeah, I'll admit it. I had a little too much fun picking out the baby-monsters in the more classical portraits found on the upper floors. Seriously, though--some of those painters really had a hard time figuring out how to do babies and childrens' faces, what gives?
In a nutshell: if it's a rainy/snowy day in Edinburgh--if you've an interest in art or classical, historical figures--or if you just have an appreciation for good architecture and the humanities, the Portrait Gallery is absolutely worth a visit! read more