After a slight hiatus due to both of us travelling, my fine dining companion Gemma G and I were…read moretrying to decide on our next culinary adventure when the publication of the the Michelin Guide for 2012 a few weeks ago solved our problem - The Pass restaurant at South Lodge hotel near Horsham, located between our homes was graced with its first Michelin star and I'm sure all you Yelpers know the joy of discovering somewhere new to share with others
South Lodge hotel is one of the stable of luxury hotels belonging to the Exlusive Hotels group and I've enjoyed a lovely meal at the Latymer restaurant in Pennyhill Park hotel, one of their sister hotels. The hotel is located a few miles off the A23 and it's quite an exciting drive through country lanes to reach there (well, I don't have a red sports car!)
The exterior and reception area immediately transport you back to an era of Edwardian/Victorian country house elegance with high ceilings, dark wood, plush furniture and furnishings. As we were a bit early, we had a drink in the lounge, which had the perfect comfortable pampering surroundings to sit and catch up
Reluctant to spend £8.50 on non alcoholic cocktails, we were impressed by their range of unusual fruit juices and enjoyed fresh, fruity strawberry and pear juices.
At the appointed time, we were led to our table and as mentioned in her review, Gemma and I were both stunned when we stepped through the door into The Pass. The restaurant menu does describe dinner at The Pass as a 'dramatic dining experience' and I can assure you that it is no empty boast! For those of you who want to experience that same impact that we experience should not read the next 3 paragraphs of my review as they will contain spoilers
Being foodies, we should perhaps have been forewarned by the name of the restaurant - for those of you who don't know, the pass is the part of the kitchen where all elements of the dishes are brought up and plated by the main chef.
Basically, they have created the most amazing dining room I've seen because it's not just like being at the chef's table but in fact being right in the heart of the kitchen where you can see everything happening and in case you can't, there are TVs on the walls showing you different areas of the kitchen at work. If you're interested in how kitchens function, this is heaven!
Everything is sleek, modern and shiny with bright lights (great for photographing food!) in contrast to the rest of the hotel. The hotel website certainly doesn't sell the dining area as much as it could
They offer 5,6, and 8 course tasting menus. Obviously, Gemma had to force me to have 8 courses (not!)
1. Canapes
Parsnip crisps, breadsticks, truffle dip & cheese puffs were a good munch while we looked at the menu
2. Amuse bouche
Array of pumpkin - caramelised pumpkin covered by pumpkin soup topped with pumpkin crumble. Nice start to the meal
3. Salad of beetroot with poached egg
The beetroot was turned into so many textures - crisp, ice cream, soil to cover the egg amongst others. I'm still intrigued how they cooked the yolk so precisely
4. Crab tortellini with smoked sweetcorn & mushroom
The tortellini was fried and packed with lovely fresh sweet white crabmeat. I was glad the accompaniments didn't overpower the crab
5. Pressed pork with pickled apples, hazelnuts & goat's cheese
Nice flavours but the pork was a little dry. Nothing a little sauce wouldn't have fixed
6. Scallops in crushed chickpeas, licorice puree & pickled pear
Interesting combo. Scallops cooked perfectly & went well with unusual partners
7. Onion preparations with herb crust & goat's cheese
Humble onion given new life!
8. Fillet of beef, mustard gnocchi, red cabbage & cauliflower cheese puree
The melt in the mouth sous vided beef has made my mind up to buy my own sous vide water bath. Stunning and my favourite dish!
9. Fennel brulee, lemon curd, raspberry sorbet
Lovely creamy just set custard topped with delicate disc of sugar. It was hard to defnitely identify the fennel but the star was a great sorbet
10. Rice parfait, chocolate ganache, raspberry gel, marzipan & basil ice cream
Each element was prepared well but I wasn't sure which was the best combination. Surprise of popping candy!
It was a fantastic meal of different flavour combinations, all expertly plated up
Service was top notch & friendly and when we were told to feel free to pop up to the pass at any time, we didn't need a second invitation! Matt Gillan, the head chef, was wonderfully modest about his star (he was busy scrubbing the stove when we visited - leading from the front!) He really took time to indulge the food geek in both Gemma & me and trust me when I say that we covered all topics from his favourite kitchen toys to other Sussex eateries to his cookery CV. He also had time for a picture & to sign Gemma's menu
Now, I wonder if he was serious in his talk about Guildford lacking a top class restaurant & my suggesting that he fill that void....