It was the Mappa Mundi that drew me to Hereford's famed cathedral. The Cathedral is home to this incredible map of the world created in the thirteenth century giving a unique insight into how the world was viewed at that time.
Approaching Hereford, the Cathedral's square Norman tower dominates the skyline. Even on a wet and windy day, it is an impressive and beautiful sight. The way to the Cathedral is well-signposted from the outskirts of the city with the brown directional sign.
There is plenty of parking close to the cathedral (mainly pay and display) or it is easily walkable from most points in the city. Because of the weather on this occasion we chose to drive and park paying £3 for 3 hours.
The Cathedral boasts not one but two patron saints; St Mary the Virgin and St Ethelbert. The story behind Ethelbert is quite intriguing in itself. He was betrothed to the daughter of Offa, King of Mercia but instead of a wedding, Ethelbert was beheaded by Offa. Why? Historians aren't able to provide an answer. Anyway, Ethelberts body was brought to the church standing on the site of the present cathedral by a pious monk. At his tomb miracles are said to have occurred. The following century, Milfrid, a Mercian nobleman, was so moved by the legends that he rebuild the church in stone and dedicated it to Ethelbert.
The Mappa Mundi exhibition opens between 10 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. We arrived a little early for this at 9 a.m. so decided to wander around the cathedral itself first. And I am so glad we did! The Cathedral was awe inspiring containing so many wonderful treasures!
Stepping through the main door, the cathedral nave opens up - bright, light and spacious with majestic Norman pillars reaching upwards.. The nave was first buiklt in the 1100s although the present day nave bears no resemblance to how it would have looked at that time. Alterations were completed in 1786 when the cathedral tower collapsed.. James Wyatt, a famous architect, was commissioned to carry out repairs. A wonderful illustration of his skills!
An information desk is situated at the North Porch Door where a walk round guide is available or you could book one of the various tours the cathedral offers including cathedral tours (11.00 a.m. and 2.00 p.m.), Historic and architectural Tours, Garden Tours, Tower Tours and Restoration tours. We chose to follow the walk round tour giving us the freedom to wander at our own pace gleaning information from the guide and information boards within the cathedral.
Moving into the north transept, rebuilt by Bishop Aquablanca is very French in style with pointed arches and colourful stained glass window. Housed in this transept is the impressive shrine of Bishop Cantilupe canonised in 1320. Constructed with Purbeck marble, it is decorated with fourteen figures of Knights Templars in chain armour.
For a view of the cathedral as it was in medieval times, look to the South. It was started in around 1107 and completed some 40 years later. The five rows of arches in the east wall are particularly beautiful. Nestled in three of the largest arches tapestries woven in Namibia designed by John Piper.
Entrance to the 165 feet tower comes directly after. There are supposed to be 218 steps however I can neither affirm nor deny this as it was closed on the day we visited!! I am not sure whether to be disappointed or glad.
Passing through the choir with the wonderful organ, you reach a little chapel, the Stanbury Chantry Chapel. This is one of the most delightful parts of the chapel with with its fan-vaulted roof, panelled walls, stained glass windows and charming triptych. It just exudes a peacefulness!
Close by is a brass rubbing corner with a wide range of replica monumental brasses from Hereford Cathedral and around the UK.
And finally to the Mappa Mundi! Entrance to the exibition is £4.50 for adults and £3.50 for concessions. Leading to the map is a corridor lined with various information boards, video displays including an english translation of the map and a braille map. Spend some time looking at the english translattion - it does help when studying the real thing!
The map is housed in a glass case in a darkened room ensuring a steady temperature, humidity and lighting.
The map is signed by Richard of Haldingham who includes himself on the map itself: he is to be seen in the right-hand corner on horseback. The map is drawn on a single sheet of vellum measuring 158 cm by 133 cm. and is the largest but one of all medieval maps. The world is depicted as round. The map focuses on religion featuring towns and countries from the Bible. At the top of the map is Heaven and Hell. The tower of Babel, Jerusalem and Bethlehem are all included. In Europe most of the larger cathedrals are depicted including Notre Dame and Rome's St Peters. I was pleased to see Chester!! Intermingled among the cathedrals were numerous animals, birds, and fish both real and mythical. The unicorn and rhinocerous in close proximity. read more
