River Café is a London gem that has withstood the test of time, but it took news of its plans to open a sister restaurant in Mayfair that spurred me to visit the original. We came for dinner on a weekday evening, and unsurprisingly for a place of its calibre and price tag, it was predominantly full of work dinners. I don't get the sense this is a place many 20-somethings frequent. It's located in a residential area about 15 minutes' walk from Hammersmith station, and to get there I had to walk down quite a few dark and deserted roads. It's not necessarily the trendiest place in London to open a restaurant, but for this people are willing to make the trek. There were many taxis and Ubers dropping people off, given the long walk, but on a narrow street without any real room to navigate so there was a bit of a traffic jam. The restaurant is located along the river, but there is an awkward courtyard space between the restaurant and the water so you are not overlooking the water. The entrance is also not located on the street, so you have to walk into the courtyard and turn around before your see the signage for the restaurant. If you were walking down the street, you might not know that it was a restaurant. I also found the décor of the restaurant a bit strange. There is a long bar when you first enter, which seems like a place to wait for the rest of your party, and not actually used as a bar. If I were them, I would get rid of it and put in more tables. There was a projection of a working clock on the wall, and a brightly coloured artistic looking pizza oven, none of which really did it for me. There is also an abundance of staff, all rushing around looking very stressed, though that made it easy whenever I wanted to get their attention.
As for the food, we ordered the chargrilled squid and the buffalo mozzarella to share for the table. There were 3 pieces of each, which was not an abundance of food, and I'd struggle to say that it was worth £20 for a starter. For the mains, my friends all got the roast beef, and I got the slow roasted veal. I was tempted to get the veal sweetbreads, but paying over £35 for sweetbreads that cost next to nothing didn't seem worth it. The server actually recommended not getting pasta as a main, which is something I do quite regularly when eating out at Italian restaurants when I can't finish both a pasta course and a meat course, and I found that interesting (maybe they are very traditional). The mains were delicious and I think more understandably worth the splurge. The predominant feeling I got from the food was that it was remarkably similar to what I had a Spring at Somerset House, which is Italian inspired without claiming to be through and through Italian, whereas River Café (though you wouldn't guess by the name) is known for being one of the best Italian restaurants in town. The menu is full of Italian ingredients, but what really struck me here was that the choice of wine was also entirely Italian regions. I feel like the food from both River Café and Spring are equal calibre, but at Spring I had a large window booth, plenty of room, a beautiful ambience and a relaxed dining atmosphere, whereas River Café we were at a cramped table next to a lot of other diners and with stressed out servers running back and forth. The price tag is also equally steep. For now, River Café has a Michelin star and Spring is a closely guarded secret, but I'd definitely prefer Spring. Perhaps the gap will narrow once River Café gets a new location in central London! read more