Absolutely "Ruffiana".
I am surprised this culinary seafood gem doesn't have a review yet. My friend from Rome brought me here. The day before he had told me not to eat much during the day - and he was so right. We had an awesome antipasti di mare with many many courses (to be eaten in sequence because they started with subtle flavored fish and clams and built up to culminate in an intense fresh skinless fried sardines. (I don't know if this was special treatment because my friend knew the owner. But it was quite amazing.) Primi piatti has a lot of different simple but good tasting pasta. We had Cannolicchi - a long flat shell with thick tube-like creature in it. Very good. On my first time, we didn't have any room for the secondi. There can be complimentary flourless chocolate cake and variety of after dinner digestivo - like in local neighborhood Italian restaurants. Ability to speak Italian is a must, but I got by with the menu (available also in English and translated nearly word for word) and nouns, prepositions, and gestures (but of course they were more tolerant of me, and some servers can speak a little bit of English - but not the owners). I went there another day. Had Spaghetti alla Norma (always with eggplant) - simple and good. The secondi is mostly grilled seafood unless you like seafood agridolce. Grilled seafood is simply done but good and quite a bit for the price. Prices are significantly lower compared to touristy restaurants. Reservations are a must. I am generally a tough critic.... read more