Former palace of Spanish and Austrian viceroys, the Bourbon royalty of Naples and Sicily, with a…read morestint as home to Napoleon's brother and BIL during French rule, handsome walkways, gilded palace chambers, and an elaborate Neapolitan nativity diorama await visitors.
On a Saturday evening in April the atmosphere was lively in the piazza outside though quiet with a dimming glow of sunlight cascading into the courtyard and rooms inside. Walking thru the main entrance from Piazza del Plebiscito, I followed signs to the ticket office/counter which is located inside the center back part of the courtyard. On a this evening around 5pm there was no wait. After procuring a ticket €15, or in my case getting my city pass validated, the entrance is to the right side of the courtyard (when facing the main entrance).
The only parts of the palace that are open to the general public via a regular ticket are the royal apartments and nativity scene; unfortunately I didn't see a doorway open to the Palantine Chapel, from images online it looks very much a paragon of baroque architecture, which curious enough it had progressed past (updated with 19th century stylizations), then reverted back post damages from WWII. Two other sections of the palace need separate arrangements for entry: Teatro San Carlo is a magnificent opera house, and the National Library maintains a Baroque-styled reading room containing historic manuscripts.
Walking thru the state apartments the adjectives lavish and opulent come to mind, similar to visiting many other palaces and castles. There was less furniture than I'd expected though frescoes, tapestries, framed paintings, time pieces and sculptures along the walls helped visually fill out the rooms. The ceiling frescos were especially impressive.
The Neapolitan nativity scene is the last stop of the publicly accessible rooms via this ticket, and represents the culmination of a sacred turned secular collection of figurines spanning 15th to 18th centuries. The collectors incorporated numerous scenes as well as depictions of the surrounding everyday life and objects.
The total visit is a lot to take in, doable in about 1-1.5 hours. Was surprised it wasn't crowded!