Recommended by locals, this Christmas market is one of the better ones in Vienna for 3 reasons: first, the ambiance - described as the "village in the city," Spittelberg is a pedestrian zone with narrow cobble-stoned streets a la Prague - second, there is still lots of smoking as Vienna is a haven for smokers, but it is not as bad here as in other parts of the city, and third, the erdapfelpuffer - the potato pancake this market is known for. The most famous stall at the market, with long lines, is the one where the angry-looking Austrian woman with piercings sells erdapfelpuffer that her partner fries in a large, flat iron pan. Many cultures have their own version of the potato pancake. The erdapfelpuffer, unlike my favorite Swiss rösti, contains flour, onion, egg, salt, white pepper, and a little milk. It can be eaten with a very strong garlic sauce, but I think it overpowers the taste. I loved the erdalpfelpuffer the first time I had it and returned the following day for more. The stallkeeper was still unfriendly, looked like she couldn't wait to get done with the night so she could jump off a bridge (you get why Freud had great reason to work on psychoanalysis in Vienna), but the puffer was cold and much smaller but still sold for the same price. The stallkeepers are mostly unfriendly and angry, which is unsettling, but you get used to it after a few days in cold and condescending Vienna, so that the rare smile is a surprise. The crafts and sold items are low-quality and overpriced. Why would someone pay so much for recycled bicycle tires and bottle caps - featured at one of the stalls? A quick walk from the Museum Quarter. read more