The ancient site of Yaxchilán (pronounced yash-she-Ian) sits on a puzzle piece of a peninsula carved by the Rio Usumacinta that separates Mexico from Guatemala. The journey to this site is like no other because access is only via a 40-minute ride on a long sliver of a colorful boat from Frontera Corozal up the river. You may see alligators along the shore and, not in the near vicinity, families washing their clothes. Other boats ply the water here, too, as this river is still used for transport. As my boat dug into the muddy shore of Yaxchilán's ruins, I was reminded of evidence that suggests the Mayan community built a sophisticated suspension bridge across the river here in the 7th century. If true, it would have been the longest known suspension bridge in the world. People first settled here prior to AD 300. The city became powerful about AD 600 although its inhabitants moved on after about AD 900. This was my second visit to Yaxchilán because there are a few structures that have stayed in my mind. Structure 19 is called The Labyrinth and its glorious stonework surrounds you as you enter into total darkness before exiting to a view of the main plaza. A grand staircase, etched into the slope of large hill, beautifully frames Structure 33 at the top. This structure is a peacock of a building because its incredibly tall roof comb sits atop it like a magnificent headdress. This is Mayan curb appeal at its finest and looking out toward the plaza and the river from this spot is thrilling. There are other highlights here, too. A number of well-preserved lintels -- the stone supporting element in a doorway -- are richly carved. I exercised my core muscles repeatedly as I lay on my back in doorway after doorway to check out the images above. Returning on the boat toward Frontera Corozal, I looked at the surrounding hills and mountains and was reminded of another river excursion in western Guatemala some years ago. The man who was taking me by boat to the Mexican border looked out and said 'these are not mountains -- these are pyramids'. It's fascinating to wonder how many pyramids and lost cities in the Mayan world have yet to be rediscovered under the lush greenery. read more

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