A concept from Rene Frank, former Pastry Chef at Michelin 3-star La Vie, CODA seeks to elevate classic patisserie techniques into a complete tasting menu served amidst casual confines in trendy Neukölln.
Described as a "Dessert Restaurant," the definition of this discovered across five courses plus an equal number of Snacks and Mignardises beginning at 22h00, guests will find the intimate space behind tagged walls with signage so inapparent it is easy to miss.
Also offering a 7-course dinner earlier, both tastings complete with small pours of Alcohol, bar seating affords diners an opportunity to work while service is professionally but somewhat brisk and fairly pushy when it comes to suggesting additional Wines including a Champagne and Digestifs to start and finish.
Using no added Sugar across the night, instead choosing to let technique highlight natural sweetness, dinner begins with a quartet of individual bites, Candied Lettuce with Cream Cheese and Crystalized Cucumber easily the best while "Beefcake" also succeeds in its subtlety.
Hit and miss with the Cocktails, the first two enjoyable while others featuring Dill or Horseradish Eau de Vie were frankly undrinkable, proper courses began with Cabbage and Cheese stuck to the bowl over Grapefruit before continuing onto a three-bite cup of assertive Rhubarb with Tarragon and Honey.
A slow paced meal, lengthy pauses seeing another solo diner read a novel between courses, dish three presents a quarter Waffle filled with Cheese intended to be dragged through Kimchi Powder and Yogurt before proceeding to an "Entrée" of grilled Apple beneath an Oatmeal Crust and Raisins.
All concrete and monochrome, the kitchen working quietly on plates that are higher in concept than in taste, CODA's "signature" comes in the form of a €40 supplement "Caviar Popsicle" that is gorgeous in both taste and texture before serving a fairly forgettable Carrot and Cocoa finale and sending guests into the night still-hungry and €178 poorer. read more
