Riverside, NJ, is no longer the thriving Delaware River side town it was in the middle of the last century. Scott Avenue is still a wide expanse well designed for Independence and Veterans Day parades, but the storefronts on either side are now either boarded up or operating as low budget businesses working hard to survive in this dusty backwater now that its industrial base is gone. That is, except for the Golden River Restaurant. Their building has been standing for over one hundred years, taking many forms from drug store to early age department store and appliance outlet. Since about 1992 it has been a restaurant, most recently in its present form as a breakfast/lunch emporium. I stopped in after court in Mt. Holly to see what they had going on. It is a large room with booths and tables up front and an old lunch counter in back. It feels dated, yet comfortable - quietly fitting into the over the hill sensibility of Riverside itself. I took a stool at the counter and was immediately approached by a very friendly server offering Lacas Coffee and a menu. People were shorter a century ago, and I discovered that I could not fit my legs under the counter. I moved over to the end of the row where there was a bit more room due to warpage and a bent stool frame. Fit my 6' 4" fine there. I ordered their Greek Omelette with rye toast, and suggested the chef put the home fries inside the egg case along with the onions, peppers, mushrooms, sausage, feta and whatever else was in there. In the meantime I sipped my joe and chatted with my counter lady and other customers. Everyone was talkative and willing to share their thoughts. Cool! My breakfast was delicious and filling. The eggs were still wet enough to meld with its filling, allowing each element to speak in its own voice, yet harmonize perfectly together. It was definitely a case where the whole was greater than the sum of its parts. A splash of hot sauce completed the dish, adding a touch of heat to the rest of the opus. The rye had crunchy texture and sourness, exactly as I like. This was a strong candidate for omelette of the year. As I departed the chef/owner met me at the door to ask after my satisfaction. He was pleased with my reply. Turns out that he had spent years in Trenton and knew many of the same restaurants and lawyers from the capital city where my office is located. A pleasant surprise. I congratulated him on his success in Riverside, and reminded him that his employee at the counter deserved a raise. Hope she gets it. read more