Currently ranked #8 on the San Pellegrino List, no small feat for a self-taught Chef whose past-lives included medicine, author, food critic and entrepreneur, Bruno Verjus remains one of Paris' top names nearly thirteen years after opening his Restaurant "Table."
Awarded his second Michelin star in 2022, an accolade retained until now even as prices for the daily Tasting Menu have doubled from pre-pandemic, it is inside the simple green-awning space that guests will find a curved metal bar surrounding the kitchen where each plate is made from scratch at lunch and dinner.
Booking just four diners for Wednesday lunch service, frankly unheard of for top-tables in Paris, a choice of seats was offered and after inquiring about allergies or intolerances the heavy-hitter Wine list was perused to the tune of three €40 glasses of 2018 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey La Genelotte Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru.
Eschewing all the luxuries of Alain Ducasse or Guy Savoy, though linens and high-quality stemware show Verjus understands what matters, it is while watching plates come together that guests are spoken to with warmth by staff who truly seem to value feedback.
Starting with "Colours of the Day," varied Herbs and Vegetables lightly dressed amidst Bottarga, course two entails three bites from which an Oyster crowned by Kiwi proved to be one of the meal's highlights.
A zealot for seasonal products, sliced White Asparagus allowed to shine in a buttery Sauce with smoke Roe, Verjus' time in Asia shows in lightly cooked Turbot bathing in a pool of Fish Soup brightened by Seaweed and hints of Soy.
Priced on par with spots like Louis XV and Plénitude, a fact one cannot ignore when faced with a dish like "Moussestage" that is essentially Herb Soup, Gamba Roja with Uni beg question what the Green Star means since neither are local, though the dish and its follow-up Pigeon are both very good.
Eschewing mis en place, only a curated Cheese Course showing any semblance of assemblage while everything else is prepared to order, pre-Dessert of Peas and Cream proves a nice setup to the unwavering finale of a Caper-infused Dark Chocolate Tart with Caviar and warm Madelines dipped in Kardamili Olive Oil. read more
