I stayed overnight at the Pilgrim's Inn at the beginning of August, choosing it for its gorgeously remote location on Deer Isle as well as for the tasting menu on option from Chef Ryan McCaskey, lauded for focusing on all the good fresh, seasonal ingredients Maine is known for. This was my splurge and treat night at the end of a vacation and it was absolutely worth it! First, the ambience: it's cozy and rustic inside, with a friendly staff; I arrived a few minutes early specifically to have a drink at the bar, which was staffed by fabulous bartender Abby who made me a perfect vodka martini. Chatted with a couple of other locals who apparently drop in from time to time. Once in the dining room I settled in for the tasting menu (I elected to add on the wine pairings as well--why not?). First up was cauliflower in a buttery roe sauce, paired with a French Chardonnay: this was either briefly roasted or pan-seared and there was something a delicately lemony about the butter sauce, a brightness you might not expect with cauliflower that was a really nice way to begin. Next up was celery soup, served inventively with a cute mini-terrarium with greens and spice which is then transformed when the soup is poured in--whatever seasoning this was provided the "dirt" in the garden and was delicious! After this was a deceptively simple dish (in a seriously gorgeous bowl, btw) of white beans dotted with caviar--this is one of those cases where simple = absolute perfection. And I wasn't finished with the appetizers yet, because following this was a kind of deconstructed lobster bake, with a little corn flan instead of the actual cob, rich bisque, and a flaky little biscuit. Talk about a party in a bowl! The meat course was melt-in-the-mouth short ribs with an onion purée--almost like a little stew, a rich, meaty harbinger of fall. I was having an amazing Pinot Noir with this (you could have fooled me and told me it was a Cotes du Rhone and I would have believed it). I'd elected to get the foie gras supplement and was pretty full by then, but it too was delicious! I was thankful for a bit of a palate cleanser after that, so to start off the desserts (yes plural) there was a beet and strawberry puree, followed by a chocolatey little thing and finally an upscale chocolate bar sprinkled with sea salt. You don't have to get the tasting menu; most of the main items were also available a la carte. And what I loved is that even with some of the more inventive touches, nothing at all was fussy or tried to meld strange flavors or was trying to make any kind of point other than how wonderful local, top-quality ingredients can shine. As if that's not enough, there's breakfast if you're a guest at the inn! So after rolling myself upstairs for a blissful night of sleep, I came down to homemade corned beef hash and eggs, probably the best I've ever had. And the same chef was hard at work in the a.m. too. Practicalities: if you're not staying overnight you'll need to be in Deer Isle or nearby Stonington, or close enough on the Blue Hill peninsula. There is plenty of room to park outside if you're driving. As noted it's a rustic vibe; think smart casual (though really it was pretty relaxed overall and one of the people I was with at the bar was wearing a fleece; I mean it's Maine). And solo diners, they'll treat you right--in fact I wasn't the only person there on my own--so if you're someone who likes to treat yourself every now and then, think about putting the restaurant at Pilgrim's Inn on your list for next season. read more