Really great Neapolitan style pizza tucked into the back of the Krog Street Market.
To avoid disappointment, it helps to know a few things about Neapolitan pizza. The crust is thin and the sauce is wet. That makes it challenging to pick up the slices. It is not incorrect to use utensils to eat the pizza. That's how this style is eaten in Naples. Due to the thin crust, overloading with toppings is not a good idea. Two is probably the max I would go. The crust is going to be charred in places. That leoparding is the sign of a well made pie. And proper Neapolitan sauce is just high-quality crushed tomatoes and salt, no more, no less.
Having said that, Varuna Napoli hits just about every marker. The Margharita uses imported buffalo mozzarella as opposed to cow's milk mozzarella and the taste difference is notable. The mushrooms are oven-roasted creminis, not some slimy canned fungi wannabe. The crust is made from a lievito madre, the Italian version of sourdough, and it has a lovely flavor. Two of us split one pie and it was almost enough for lunch. Two pies would have been (delicious) overkill.
If you're lucky enough to be there when the older Italian pizzaiolo is working make sure to engage him in conversation about the pizza. He is very knowledgeable and proud of his work and is happy to talk about it.
FWIW, although the pizza oven was built to be wood fired a change in local regulations required them to change it to gas fired.
And a final pro tip: Do not take the pie to go. Once you put good pizza in a closed box you will open it to find mediocre pizza at best. In fact, ask them to leave the box open if you're eating in. The staff will look at you funny but the pizza is better for it. read more