As we passed through the metal detectors to get into the all-star classic, it wouldn't be until later that I realized why that was so important......Because we were about to board the Titanic with only half the lifeboats. After past years' perfectly run events, this one was an epic fail. All that I hate about large foodie events, came true. Long lines, running out of food way too early, and panicking people who aren't getting what they paid for. Chef Ludo Lefebvre had solved these problems, which had made the All-Star Chef's Classic the premier foodie event. So what went wrong this year?
We got off to a great start as we boarded the Titanic on time right at 7:30. Started off with what was the best dish of the night, with a beautiful scallop dashi. But a few dishes later and I found myself disappointed in the food. Unlike past years, this food was forgettable and uninspired. Now out of 18 dishes, you are going to have some misses, but it soon became clear, this wasn't at the same level as past years and some combinations weren't well thought out. The worst dish of the night was a kobe beef tartare on a pork rind covered in salty caviar. The kobe beef couldn't be tasted at all and how cheap was that caviar? Pure salt. And a strong pork rind. LOL This had to be some kind of joke. We had another chef take a nice piece of Lobster and cover in spicy Thai curry. Not a great curry either. But why would you do that with Lobster? We had cotton candy put into a spicy soup to sweeten it up. Well the cotton candy just melts back into sugar again, so why are we doing this? Not that I minded the flavor of this dish, I just felt that it was silly. Ok enough with the food reviews, which I know can be subjective......
So I'm starting to see some long lines forming, which was surprising.....There were never long lines in the past. I mean, sure there is an ebb and flow, but everyone has a ticket book which guarantees you a tasting, and the chefs know how many items to plate so no problem right? "Iceberg Right Ahead!!!" It's only 90 minutes into the event (which lasts 2 and half hours), and I'm in a longish line for Chef Chris Oh, when a crazy woman starts shrieking...."get out of line, they said I'm the last one. You are all wasting your time, blah blah blah." Now there's maybe 50-60 people in line behind her, so I just ignore her, saying to everyone around me.....No, she's drunk, that's why Ludo created these ticket booklets, so we all would get a portion. Don't worry the Titanic is unsinkable. But sure enough Chris Oh passed out his last dish with hundreds still holding tickets. I asked him for an explanation. He said, he plated 1,400 portions. I countered that's not possible since, I'm still holding a ticket for his dish, along with lots of other people. I wrote this off as perhaps he got his count wrong, but I quickly sensed that panic was in the air as word was spreading that Titanic was going down and they didn't have enough life boats for everyone.
Couples started splitting up to each get in separate lines. Most didn't make it, as line after line started getting shut down and turning desperate diners away. People were angry, and cussing at those that did manage to get one of the last servings. The lucky ones had to move quickly past the yelling mob, for fear of being tackled for a plate of food. A few noble chefs attempted to save as many as possible by stretching out their dishes. Chef Joseph Johnson from Minton's in NY, went down with the ship, his line offered one of the last hopes of the night to many.....he took his huge plate of food and whittled it down and whittled it down some more to try to stretch it out. His line reaching 200-300 at one point. He stopped collecting tickets and just continued to bail the water, somehow finding more shrimp to quickly cook up, so people could have something.....even if it didn't reflect his original dish.
When the lights came on unexpectedly at 10pm.....it was officially over. The shrieks of people staring at unused tickets started to drown out into the cool night air. Ludo was nowhere to be found. I found out later from a well respected chef, that he bailed on this event before it even started, probably knowing it was doomed. In the aftermath, it's clear that the grill & chill was oversold, and not by a little bit. I spoke to several people who didn't even pay for their tickets, it was given to them as a perk for attending one of the other events, or doing business with someone or other. How many people who didn't even pay, but took paying customer's food, we'll never know. But know this... for $125 per person, you can eat almost anywhere in this town. And unless I'm given assurances that this won't ever happen again, I'm staying far away and not recommending it to anyone. How sad that Ludo Lefebvre's once beautiful event now lays at the bottom of the culinary ocean, sunk by greed. RIP Grill & Chill. read more