This is none other than *the* world's temple to sour beer. Beer geeks the world over are aware of Cantillon, but this brewery occupies a special place in the hearts of those who favor the sour funk of authentic Belgian lambics.
If pressed, I would tell you that Cantillon is my favorite brewery in all the world. As we navigated Brussels' public transit to get here, I must have been more excitedly nervous than a kid on Christmas morning. It's funny, I always had the idea that this brewery would be located in a more bucolic, pastoral setting. Nothing could be further from the truth - this place is smack in the middle of bustling, incredibly non-pastoral Brussels, near the train station.
A little note before I continue - I would say that this brewery is not for the uninitiated. Unless you either know you love seriously sour, funky beer, or you have an adventurous palate, find another brewery to visit. This shouldn't be too difficult, as you're in Belgium, after all. Otherwise, you run a high risk of thinking the beer sucks, and doing something ridiculously absurd like coming back on Yelp and writing a 1 or 2 star review. Don't do it. If you're not ready, you're not ready.
Guided tours are available, but I think the self-guided tour is perfect. You wander around the brewery with a brochure correlated with numbers assigned to various rooms, pieces of equipment, etc. I've been on a fair number of brewery tours, and they are all pretty similar. Here's our stainless steel tanks, blah, blah, blah. Not so at Cantillon, a place that features a giant wooden "coolship" in the attic, wooden vats, and cobwebs and spiders. Yes, cobwebs and spiders - they don't dare mess with the entrenched microflora and microfauna, for fear of disrupting the environment that makes these spontaneously fermented beers so unique. There are very few concessions to modernity in here - lambics have been brewed this way for hundreds of years.
While the tour was self guided as I mentioned above, I did get to talk with one of the employees before and after the tour, and had a blast chatting with this guy. Never in my life have I experienced such light-hearted, down-to-earth snobbiness. Yes, they do think very highly of themselves here, but 1) they deserve to and 2) they maintain quite the sense of humor and perspective. They think it's silly the way American beer fanatics fawn over their "rare" beer and treat it like it's gold. To them, it's just beer. Mind you, they are extremely proud of their beer, but it's still just beer, meant to be shared with good company, not hoarded. I try to remember that.
In that spirit, we come to the tasting room, (obviously) the best part of the whole experience. Here can be had almost all of the beers sour fanatics salivate over, in a relaxed setting - no huge line or jostling crowd. Believe it or not, the prices are reasonable, too - if I recall correctly, I spent little more than 20 bucks per (after conversion from Euros) on bottles that would run anywhere from 60 to 100 USD in the very few U.S. beer bars that carry such bottles.
In the seating area, we met a small group of other American beer geeks, from Atlanta, and Asheville - we joined forces, bought bottles, and had an impromptu bottle share. What a day. This made us 10 minutes late for our lunch reservation at an area restaurant, where we were rudely turned away....but drinking Cantillon beers at the source was worth it. I would say that this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but if I did, I'd kind of be admitting that I'm probably not coming back....which would be sad. I do hope to come back someday. read more