I was solo for the day, and decided to just go full tilt on the dumplings. Mulmandu and gunmandu - respectively boiled and fried dumplings (I'd hoped I'd learned two new words, mul and gun, as boiled and fried, but it turns out they mean water and pan). Ten to an order at 160 pesos each sounded a bit pricey, though it turns out these things are huge - each of them somewhere between two and three times the size of a typical Chinese potsticker dumpling. I was hard-pressed to make it through twenty of them, but I did. They're good. Not wow good, but really good. The waiter showed me how to make the dipping sauce (I already knew, but he was very earnest about showing a gringo how to do it, so I let him) - mixing soy sauce, rice vinegar, and chili powder. Perfect with the boiled dumplings, for the fried dumplings, I actually preferred the sweet, salty, sticky salsa negra chunjang, which is a fermented soybean paste that came with the pickled daikon and kimchi as complimentary nibbles. I'll definitely go back to try more dishes! read more