I would have to say that Denali National Park is one of the biggest disappointments of a National Park I've ever been to.
- Mount Denali -
First of all, only about 30% of visitors will be lucky enough to actually see Denali (the mountain) while within the park. (Yes, I saw it as I get up early: pre cloud cover) Add to this that there are actually better places to see Mount Denali from such as Trapper Creek AK, on the highway heading back to Anchorage AK, Talkeetna AK, etc. and it makes going to Denali National Park with the goal of seeing Denali kind of pointless.
- Bus System -
If you can not get onto one of the transit or tour bus (best scheduled far in advance online if you have any hope of getting on one), you might as well not go to Denali NP at all.
It's not that Denali NP is not lovely, because it is. However, there are many other State and National Parks that are just as lovely and well, much lovelier than Denali. Heck, there are DRIVES along the Alaska highway such as on the Richardson Highway and Seward Highway that are WAY more beautiful that Denali NP. (Not to mention that most people go for the wildlife more than the scenery.)
According to our very well informed bus guide (yes, I booked online way in advance), Park Officials at Denali decided they didn't want Denali to be like Yellowstone and wanted the animals and ecosystem to remain undisturbed..... (and to make a crapton of cash in my cynical opinion). To this end, they cut the portion of the 92 mile park road that you can visit in your own vehicle down to only around mile 14.5, or at the portion of the park ecosystem where visitors have less than a 4% chance of seeing much if any large wildlife at all. This means that you pay your $15 entry fee to be in an area of the park where you are pretty much guaranteed NOT to see the large animals for which Denali is famous.
Now, there are many National Parks that use a bus system to cut down on pollution, visitor/animal accidents, etc. I can totally understand that. However, at most other National Parks, the cost of riding said transit is included in your park admission price or quite minimal.
Not at Denali NP. Here, you are looking at $40 to $60 per person for the running transit buses (this season) to as much as $110 pp for the naturalist narrated Tundra Tour or $199 pp if you want a narrated tour that goes the entire 92 miles. This makes getting the full Denali NP experience quite cost prohibitive for many.
Fortunately, apparently, a study was done and about 90 or so % of the large animals at Denali hang out in the areas between miles 30-60. This means you really only need to go as far as Eielson to see the majority of large wildlife (if you're lucky and they are feeling social). Unfortunately, a landslide has closed off the road to only mile 42 at this time so the $40 bus is your only option right now.
Also note: The cost of the bus tour INCLUDES the $15 entry fee. This means there is no need to buy an entrance pass if you've already booked a bus tour. You simply use your copy of the bus stub as proof that you paid the park entry fee and I believe it's good for like a week.
Now having gone on the Eielson Transit bus pre landslide, I will say it was a lot of driving and scenery (MUCH prettier than the free entrance 15) though we did manage to see Caribou, Dall Sheep, 4 Grizzlies, Moose, Marmot and Willow Ptarmigan.
There are restroom stops every 90 mins with 1 place to buy food (depending on the time of your trip) but no food or drink on offer on the bus itself. I would advise you to pack snacks/drinks. Also, the road is not for the faint of heart: super narrow dirt/mud road, high on mountains with sheer drop offs and no guard rails.
Masks are required at both the bus depot and on buses at all times except for brief periods when eating or drinking. I personally only ate and drank off the bus during the stops.
Lastly, whenever possible, ALWAYS try to be on the 1st tour of the day. If that's not possible, be on the last. You will see the most wildlife this way.
- Timed Entry Pass -
I was also fortunate enough to get my hands on one of these. (Yes, also bought on line and in advance.) Now, while they have been sold out for a minute, if you check the purchase site frequently, like once or twice a day, you MAY just luck up and catch one that was returned. That's how I got mine.
This pass allows you to drive miles 10-30 in your personal vehicle at your own pace. You can go as slow as you want, stop and get out (with caveats).
I must say I LOVED this pass - my only regret being that it didn't let you go farther. I saw 1 grizzly, caribou, Marmot and Willow Ptarmigan on this outing. It was nice to be able to drive/hang out in this part of the park at your leisure until 9p the day of. Though not nearly as much large wildlife as miles 30-60, I did see quite a lot of birds and marmot as compared to the crickets of the free 15. read more