A near-surreal highlight of our trip to the Azores, Ilhéu de Vila Franco is a volcanic crater…read moreturned beach islet in the middle of the Atlantic, reachable only by sanctioned ferry. Driving along the southern coast of São Miguel, it appears as a curious formation jutting just above sea level, enveloping some secret hideaway. Aerial views - via drones or quick Google image searches - show a perfect natural circle of a pool outlined by green plantlife and rocky beach. It feels almost too imaginative to be real, as if it were from a Pixar landscape or a Game of Thrones backdrop. In other words, I had to go.
The round-trip ferry ticket is only eight euro, but the excursion really costs your time and effort. During the height of summer, expect a lengthy queue to build well in advance of the first ferry at 10a.* We arrived just before 8a and were poised to be on that initial trip out (the boat holds 40), until we saw another line forming near the docks. I quickly figured out that those soon-to-be passengers were able to purchase tickets online, something I had attempted to do before my visit, only to find out that you needed a Portuguese bank account to book, a clever way for the Azores to prioritize their citizens get first dibs to the ilhéu. Thankfully, when there's the demand (and on our mid-August adventure, there most certainly was), they ditch the hourly ferry schedule, and shuttle everyone back and forth accordingly. Even with waiting on line for the tickets, and then waiting on a second line for the ferry, we managed to make it out there by 1030a.
After you take the short ten-minute boat ride, you're dropped into a miniature paradise, where visitors can choose to strip down and sunbathe, or explore the circumference of the small islet, a trail that spans skinny, slippery rock splash zones and hikeable viewpoints alike. And then, of course, you can swim in - no exaggeration - the brim of a salt-water filled volcano. We imagined we'd spend thirty minutes or so there just to check it out. We stayed for probably four hours.
I like to think of myself as pretty well-traveled, and I can confidently say I've never been anyplace like Ilhéu de Vila Franco. The process could be smoother, the wait time could be shorter, but then perhaps the payoff wouldn't be as sweet. Though, with a place this unique and otherworldly and fantastic, somehow, I doubt it. It must be seen to be believed.
*In the meantime, there are nearby breakfast spots and bathrooms along the port to help weather the wait. Just make sure your travel buddy holds your place in line.