With check-in at Fäviken beginning at 16h00 it was in Åre that several hours were spent on Friday…read moreafternoon, the ciiy best-known for its ski resort fairly quiet on the first day of June but Magnus Nilsson's Krus fully operational and no longer a pop-up but instead an all-day eatery focused on traditional Swedish dishes plus Bread, Charcuterie and Fika.
Originally opened late 2017 but quickly making an impact, Nilsson's The Nordic Cookbook forming a backbone of recipes executed with local Meats and Produce, guests entering Krus will quickly find themselves greeted by ladies behind a long counter, the low ceilings making everything about the place feel intimate while a comfortable dining room with toasters on each table beckons to the left.
Assembled for counter-ordering during the day with a broader menu and table service at Dinner, reservations apparently strongly recommended during busier seasons, it was after being informed that Pate had already sold out for the day that an order was assembled, the balance between tasting a lot and not being full at dinner initially a bit difficult to gauge but portions thankfully small and generally offering good value.
Beginning each table with complimentary Housemade Bread and the same golden Butter gracing tables at Nilsson's Michelin two-star Magasinet, the ability to warm each slice well-advised, it was with two morning Pastries including a Parisian-quality Almond Croissant both showing well that Charcuterie and Sausage arrived, the former a product of Fäviken's partnership with nearby Underaker and the Isterband rich and texturally compelling with a particularly snappy Casing.
Waiting a bit longer for fried bits of Cod caught nearby, this appetizer and a side of boiled Potatoes faultlessly executed though certainly not a revelation, it was in follow-up that a brined and grilled Chicken in its Juices was delivered, the fact that it was still too hot to touch almost cruel as guests risked burned hands and mouth to get to crispy Skin and supple Flesh as quickly as possible.
Rounding out the visit with two Desserts, a Rhubarb Clafoutis nicely flavored but not baking up as custard-y in porcelain as it tends to in cast iron, it seemed rather "hipster" that Krus offers Soft Serve as an option but immediately upon tasting one bite the reason and menu's description are both evident thanks to restrained sweetness and a palate-coating texture.