Tucked away to the south of Cowbridge, the prosperous village of Llanblethian feels more like a…read moresuburb of the larger market town, but in fact pre-dates it: mediaeval Cowbridge was founded within the older parish of Llanblethian. It is fitting, then, that Llanblethian has a very fine, well-preserved mediaeval church, located at the top of a hill overlooking the River Thaw. History The earliest documentary evidence for the church is a charter from the mid 12th Century, when it was a possession of Tewkesbury abbey. The current fabric dates from between the 12th and 15th centuries, the most notable additions being the tower (said to have been a gift of Anne Neville, wife of Richard III in 1477) and a substantial late-Gothic porch with pinnacles. The inevitable Victorian restoration stripped the interior of its plaster, but the interior is atmospheric and beautifully maintained. The church was originally dedicated to St Bleddian, the Welsh form of St Lupus, the 5th-century Bishop of Troyes. The church From the outside, the church presents a simple plan of west tower, nave and chancel, with a substantial south transept and adjoining south porch. The 15th century tower is reminiscent of those of Somerset, with stepped diagonal buttressing and traceried bell openings. On entering, the interior is dominated by those stripped walls, but is softened by a beautiful roof, with sturdy arched bracing, and a generous collection of wall memorials dating from the 17th century onwards. Indeed, more ancient memorials cover the floor throughout, as well as the walls of the porch. The chancel arch in the Early English style is clearly modern, but the tower arch is original, with two wonderful corbels of rather stout men in late 15th Century costume. The tower space contains a number of ancient tomb slabs with crosses, presumably from the tombs of earlier priests. The south wall of the transept incorporates a large Gothic niche containing a mediaeval effigy of a priest; investigations in the crypt uncovered a skeleton of a man - presumably a priest - holding a pewter chalice to his chest. The chalice is now in the church's possession. Other fittings of note include an ancient wooden door in the north wall and a handsome modern wooden reredos. The church is kept open during daylight hours, and will amply repay a visit; note that the roads in the village are both steep and subject to width restrictions.

Tucked away almost literally - among the rolling hills of the Vale of Glamorgan is the small Welsh…read moretown of Llantwit Major (Llanilltud Fawr). Although to-day it has a sprawl of dull suburbs, serving commuters to Cardiff, the centre of the old town, with its rambling narrow lanes of stone cottages, is a delight. There's a 15th century town hall, some fine 16th century inns (I recommend the Old Swan for well-kept real ale), and at its centre, the church of St Illtud (sometimes spellt Illtyd). The church, although modest in scale, is one of the most important historically in the UK. Here, in 496 AD, the aforementioned St Illtud - a Breton by birth - established a monastery, which rapidly became a major seat of learning in Dark Ages Europe: at its height, it is reputed to have had 700 houses, 7 halls, and 2,000 students from all over the world, studying theology, poetry and rhetoric, geometry, grammar and arithmetic. Recognised as the earliest centre of learning in the UK, the ravages of Viking raids in the 8th and 9th centuries and the relative decline of Celtic Christianity saw the college peter out in the mediaeval period. Had it survived, it would predate Bologna as Europe's oldest University by 500 years. Alas, it did not; but the monastery church did, and it is a fascinating monument. The building unusually retains its form of having two churches: a western church for the parishioners, and the main eastern church reserved for the monks, which has both a second nave and a chancel. The tower and crossing separate the two. Ruins of a Galillee Chapel beyond the western part indicate it was once larger still. The western church is rather scrubbed now, but it has a lovely 15th century wooden roof, 13th and 16th century tombstones, and an important collection of 7th to 9th century Celtic crosses, commemorating the Welsh kings and saints buried here. Despite their quality and importance, these appear strangely unappreciated they were hemmed in by stacks of chairs during my last visit... The crossing itself, dating from the 13th century, is of little interest save for the large decorated Norman font, but the nave of the eastern church now the main worship space certainly is. The architecture is an astonishingly spare and primitive gothic, with pointed arches resting on square pillars, and whitewashed walls, bare of carving, presumably reflecting the relative impoverishment of the local mediaeval economy. But extensive remnants of frescoes survive, dated around 1400, including a fine (and larger-than-life) St Christopher carrying Christ, a well-preserved one of St Mary Magdalene, and some geometric decoration. There are also stone carvings and tombs from the 14th century, and in the chancel a fine 15th carved stone reredos, donated by the Raglan family. As the photographs show, the church's modern surroundings are lovely: the graveyard is beautifully maintained (more arboretum than cemetery, with yews, oaks and palms). On my last visit, the nearby cottage gardens were veritably bursting with lilac and hawthorn.

Llancarfan is a delightful village in the Vale of Glamorgan, tucked away up a narrow valley (and…read moreaccessed - be warned - via some very narrow lanes). Best known for its pub, the Fox and Hounds, it is also home to one of Wales's oldest Christian sites. Here, St Cadoc founded a small monastery around 515AD. Viking raids and economic decline meant that, by the Norman conquest, the original foundation was probably a shadow of its former self, but evidence points to small Norman church having been founded on the site, rebuilt between the 12th and 15th centuries into the impressive church we see today. As well as the robust Gothic architecture, the church retains a fine mediaeval screen and Retford. But Pride of place is reserved for the substantial remains of mediaeval wall paintings, which rank among the best in Britain. For here are a superb rendition of St George and the dragon, being watched by a fine red-bearded king, his queen and the daughter (who St George is saving), with her sacrificial lamb, all watched over by the Virgin Mary. Then there is s complete rendition of the Seven Deadly Sins and a less complete depiction of the Seven Corporal Acts of Mercy. Finally there is a wonderful death and gallant, where a rotting corpse (complete with toad and worms) leads a young 15th Century dandy out of the church and into the graveyard. This is the only surviving depiction of this motif in a British church. The tower has a small Romanesque window set high up, possibly re-used from the earlier Norman church. The church still has regular services and is well worth a visit.

Spooky and devilishly charming, this castle is the setting of a school, an arts centre, and the…read moreBeyond the Border Storytelling festival. With some of the most charming and fun gardens around, this is a lovely place should you ever get the chance to visit. It's also been featured in the most recent series of Doctor Who! Oh, the excitement!

Crashing waves, towering cliffs, sheer inpregnable walls, dark spooky woods, bats, ancient church…read moreand graveyard,lush steaming river valley - St Donat's Castle. Walk along the Glamorgan Heritage Coast catching glimpses of the foaming sea below, skid down the tortuous rock path to the beach below. Catch the light at the right time (typical British summer) and marvel at the range of grey shades - cliffs, rocks, sea and sky - bleak at it's beautiful best. Clamber back up the cliff path and then down again to the slipway in front of the Castle (Atlantic College). No admission unless on an open day, but peek up the ramp at the open air swimming pool for the resident students. With permissions on open day, explore the wooded hillside. Then towards the ramparts from below, along the grass front with the gallery stand that looks just like the set of Arthur and the Round Table - Knights viewing a jousting tournament. Best time, evening, dodging the bats and looking for luscious early season blackberries flourishing in the shelter of the warm stonework. Look inside the ancient, isolated, St Donat's church nestling in the valley below - history, tradition, legacies and memories seeping from its old stones. Castle itself, a marvel - a mini Gormenghast. Loads of cultural activities too, if you plan ahead. A couple of useful links: http://www.qype.co.uk/place/380372-glamorgan-heritage-coast-Llantwit-Major http://www.qype.co.uk/events/386973-Schools-Out-Rocks-St-Donats-Arts-Centre-Llantwit-Major http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Donat's_Castle http://www.stradling.org.uk/docs/Guide2.htm http://www.glamorganwalks.com/localfeatures6.htm Fantastic place. Hope this has been useful.

Pretty without being chocolate-boxy, Penmark is a small village just outside Barry with a good…read morelocal pub and an interesting mediaeval church. Its peace is only disturbed by the aircraft taking off from nearby Cardiff-Wales airport, but it's a million miles away in character. History The village was the site of a 12th century Norman castle, overlooking a natural ravine carved by the Waycock River. Originally built in wood by Gilbert de Umfraville, it was rebuilt in stone in the 13th century. A good review of the castle (now in ruins) can be found at http://www.castlewales.com . The church was probably built around the same time, and its generous proportions may reflect the patronage of the local lord. The oldest part is the chancel arch, dating from around 1200. The tower arch dates from 1400 and most of the Perpendicular Gothic windows date from the 15th century. Charles Wesley preached here on 26th July 1777, after breakfasting in nearby Fonmon Castle. In 1811 the church is recorded as still being dedicated to St Mark, and repairs were undertaken and new seating was installed in 1893-5. In the churchyard is a preaching cross, restored in 1888, on the original mediaeval base. The church The church has a south porch, nave, chancel and tower. The most notable interior feature is the peculiar chancel arch, a simple and crude pointed arch with similarly crude zig-zag carving, dated to around 1200. More impressive is a tall and beautifully proportioned Perpendicular tower arch dating from around 1400. The nave has a well preserved staircase for a long-vanished Rood Screen. Most of the windows are perpendicular in style, dating from the later 15th century, some restored. The church has some interesting fittings and furnishings: pride of place goes to the Jacobean pulpit, from which Charles Wesley preached in 1777. The nave side altar opposite dates from 1709, and above are memorials to Jones family of Fonmon Castle. In the chancel are late 17th century alabaster memorials to the Lewis Family of Penmark Place, with coats of arms and skulls. The nave has a plain turned Norman tub font, presumably dating from the founding of the church. The church is an integral part of village life details of special services can be found in the newsletter at http://www.penmark.org . Regular services are part of the joint benefice of Benefice of Penmark with Llancarfan with Llantrithyd telephone for service times and location.