"This is the death I should have asked if God had given me the choice of all deaths - to die a soldier's death for Ireland and for freedom. We have done right. People will say hard things of us now, but later on will praise us." - Patrick Pearse.
One of the most significant monuments in Irish history (particularly modern Irish history) is Kilmainham Jail. It opened in 1796 and for most of its history it was just a regular prison housing inmates for petty crimes. For heinous crimes such as murder public executions were held in the front of the prison until 1865. Up until there was only one wing (the West Wing) where all criminals were held regardless of age and gender. Conditions were quite horrible - cells were cold and cramped, one small candle given to each inmate had to last for 2 weeks and the food was barely edible.
The picturesque East Wing was built in 1862 with an additional 96 cells, built on the principles of Victorian philosophy regarding prisons and their role in rehabilitating the inmate. Unlike the West Wing the room was more lit, hoping that inmates would look upward to the heavens as their inspiration. The principles guiding rehabilitation were those of silence and separation - prisoners were isolated and forbidden to talk to one another. While the men could be housed in the East Wing, women were segregated in the West Wing until 1881, when it became an all-male prision.
The prison became infamous for housing people that took part in the 1916 Easter Rising, which members declared Ireland a free republic, free from British rule. Back then this was a radical opinion as Britain was involved in WWI and most common Irish folk supported home rule - the notion that Ireland would be self-governed while being a part of the UK. The jail was reopened to house these people and most of the leaders of the Easter Rising (and all of the signatories of the Proclamation of the Irish Republic) were executed by firing squad outside. The executions made these people martyrs as public sympathy for the cause rose.
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My two most favorite museums/attractions in Dublin are close to each other and due to logistics I did them in one day. My #1 is Guinness Storehouse with Kilmainham Gaol being a close #2. If you're like many people who wish to combine both sights in one day it's obvious that the Storehouse is the later attraction but you should dedicate just as much time to this because of its significance in modern Irish history and like the Book of Kells, a chance to make "history come alive".
Though not located in the central part of Dublin, it is a 25-30 minute walk, a short taxi ride and most hop on/hop off buses will stop here.
ADMISSION €9. Access to the jail portion is only through guided tour. It's best to get your tickets online as the tours get quite popular during peak season and you aren't guaranteed a spot if you just walk in. It is also recommended to start early if you want to fully immerse yourself here and still have time to do the Storehouse later in the afternoon (with a definite reservation).
Adam was my tour guide for the 12:30 tour. He is one of the best tour guides I've ever encountered. For someone that did not have European history during high school he made modern Irish history come alive for me as he detailed the experiences of the prisoners and humanized their struggles. He especially noted the stories of James Connolly (the wounded prisoner that had to be sent to Kilmainham to be executed) and the love story of Joseph Plunkett and Grace Gifford, who got married in the prison chapel just hours prior to Plunkett's execution.
The prison itself is quite a marvel especially when you contrast the older West Wing with the new East Wing. The prison was abandoned for some time until the 1960's when an extensive restorative project converted the prison to its former "glory" to tourists. Names of prominent political prisoners are placed above the cells where they actually stayed and in the case of Grace Gifford's cell, you can actually peek into one of her murals of Madonna and child.
A museum helps round out your experience here as it details life at the jail and Irish history during the time period of the jail's existence. My favorite part of the museum is the poignant dimly lit Last Words exhibit as it documents the literal last words of the 1916 Easter Rising political prisoners prior to their execution from the first execution to the last. My only regret is not spending enough time here - I wanted to learn more about these important figures.
I highly recommend this place to experience a little piece of Irish history for yourself. Soak in all the information here then wash it away with a glass of Guinness several hours later. read more