Currently rated 40th on the W50b list Septime remains a difficult reservation for good reason, Chef…read moreBertrand Grébaut's time at Arpège translated to a five course tasting plus extras that changes daily for just €85 at lunch.
Fully booked at precisely 10h00 three-weeks in advance, just as it has been for more than a decade, arrival at 80 Rue de Charonne finds the green-fronted bistro largely indistinguishable from those surrounding while an interior of concrete and wood is neither exciting nor particularly comfortable.
At one point part of the "Bistronomy" movement, but now perhaps best considered a Micro-seasonal experience right down to its beverages, guests are invited to begin with Aperitifs well-suited to deeply flavored Onion Broth and signature Gougeres served piping hot with bold spicing.
Served at a leisurely pace by educated servers, though not the sort prone to over-explaining, proper courses begin with puffy Bread alongside housemade Labneh and Milk-fed Lamb Tartare before progressing to a green Salad with Egg Yolk dressed in White Wine, Olive Oil, and Garlic.
Next taking advantage of local winter Truffles, smartly sandwiched between caramelized Endive with Pears and hints of Wine, Bread is offered to sop up all the Sauce and replenished to do the same with Monkfish in complex Buillabaisse.
Not a place where one is prone to go hungry, all portions substantial including a Potato Salad offered with the Fish, Dessert on this day saw classic Crème caramel spun earthy with Mushrooms and another generous shaving of Tuber melanosporum that played well the nearly-burnt Sugar.
