This may not sound right, but I say:…read more
"Get off and look around."
What I'm referring to is getting off "the 40" (or Autoroute Felix Leclerc) on your automotive trek between Montreal and Quebec City and exploring the quaint town of Trois-Rivieres. It sits at about the halfway point along the drive, similar in length to the drive between Portland and Seattle. Moreover, I had a strong need to urinate. Doesn't that typically happen if driving between Portland and Seattle? Come on. Admit it.
There are two ways to Quebec City. You can take the 20, which is what VIA Rail follows, taking you through Drummondville on the south shore and then taking you into Quebec City using the bridges. Or, you can take the 40, and savor more of Montreal's eastern suburbs, this town (Trois-Rivieres), and approach Quebec City from the west, watching it get closer and closer. Take the 40.
Trois-Rivieres is a smaller city reminiscent of American towns pushed up against that swath of the U.S. abutting Eastern Canada. But there's something extra and unmistakably provincial, alluding to Quebec, and, if you don't get off the highway, you won't discover it. The first is those great stone cathedrals reminiscent of the region and they are easily visible from the highway. Other great civic and business buildings in the center are worthy of a look. There is a working port, along with some industrial concerns. It's all very salt of the earth. There are also squares, parks, historical landmarks, and even a small branch campus of UQ here in Trois-Rivieres (while big UQAM is in centre-ville Montreal) . The center is close to the Saint Lawrence River but one climbs upward, gaining ground, going into the more residential areas. From the hillier parts of the city, some views are available.
The area is not dense. Parking in the center may take some nickels and dimes, or a few loonies, but if you walk a handful of blocks, it can be free. It feels just right when the air is cool, the sky is mostly overcast, and the leaves are changing colors. Why not combine that feeling with some hot food and drink in one of the eateries in the area? There are lots of local little places that seemingly have been there a long time and, since tourism is not big here, they are obviously sustained by local commerce. They don't disappoint and you'll get behind the wheel of the car ready to approach Quebec City with a full stomach.
Trois-Rivieres is the real deal ... unpretentious, gritty, historic, it rolls up its sleeves in true North American fashion, and it is unmistakably Gallic in the language (English is not very widely spoken here), in the spirit of its people, and in its overall look and feel. Now THIS is "la Nouvelle France" in the New Millennium.