A difficulty arises in writing a review for a natural phenomenon - these things can be so…read moresubjective and even temperamental based on the time of year, weather, personal opinion, et cetera - but Kalapana Lava Flow is undoubtedly one of the most awe-inspiring natural wonders I've ever experienced.
And it's definitely something you experience rather than just see - you see the juicy yellow and orange glow of the molten lava, you feel the heat radiating on your face from several yards away, and you hear the cracks and pops as it slowly settles and oozes onto the land beneath it. You feel as though you are witnessing the last remnants of Creation, the sixth day has yet to finish, and the primordial energy of eons past is still in the throes of its final breaths. You and your fellow observers will likely feel the need to whisper and speak in hushed tones, as if it is holy ground or the embodiment of some celestial force.
Anyway, if you can see the flow at night, this'll undoubtedly be one of the most profoundly majestic experiences you can imagine. The lava ebbs and flows even within the spans of minutes and hours, so don't be discouraged if you see only a bit of oozing rather than a true flow once you arrive. It's dynamic and moves slowly but stealthily, and a new eruption site can arise on the periphery that wasn't there just ten minutes prior.
As a reference, we arrived at the bike rental area (from Hilo, drive the 130 through Pahoa and completely to the south end of the 130, at which point it will force you onto a smaller road in a southwestern direction that will eventually dead end in a parking area), around 5pm, paid $20 a person for a high quality mountain bike, biked the first mile or two in, and then started our journey north over the rocks around 5:20. This leg took at least an hour or so, and we loitered around the different lava sites for at least an hour before making the trek back in the dark. All in all, allow for at least four hours of time from start to finish - we were driving away back to our condo at nearly 9pm exactly.
Tips:
- bring STRONG flashlights or headlamps for the trek back over the lava. The cheaper and dimmer the light, the more difficult. Also bring the basics such as cash, snacks, water, your [charged] camera and phone, and sunscreen for the trek in.
- wear hiking boots; any sturdy tennis shoe will do but the igneous ground, often simultaneously rough, grainy, and hot, will do a number on any flimsy sneakers. Don't wear any stylish or fancy tennis shoes either, or even hardy sandals - I guarantee you will regret it.
- if you wear contacts, bring back up glasses.
- don't park at the first parking area or get your bike from the vendors; shop around smart. Many vendors are obnoxiously hawkish.
- on a similar note, do indeed get a bike to go the first mile or so! The first leg of the walk is pretty but dry and dusty and pales in comparison to the actual destination. All the bike companies look like they throw in extra lights, water, and snack bars. You'll really appreciate the bike for the last leg back as well - best $20 spent so far.
My husband and I both finished up the trip in complete agreement that seeing the lava up close in person was one of the most spectacular moments of our lives thus far!
