Hands down one of the best beaches on the face of the earth. Totally isolated and accessible only…read moreby a GRUELING 11-mile hike starting at the trail head at Ha'ena Beach State Park near Princeville. Even though the literature states that it has an 800 foot elevation, the 22-mile out and back hike takes two days and accumulates an 11,000 foot elevation change.
To reach the beach, one has to have special permits from the Hawaii State Parks Office in Lihue, and allows the hiker to get to the beach and spend four days in paradise. The number of permits is limited so it pays to plan in advance. There are "poacher" hikers on the trails but they are subject to a stiff fine or arrest if caught. The trail is primitive. That means that all you need for the trail and stay, you have to carry in and out. All water must be filtered as feral poultry have contaminated virtually all watersheds with Giardia and Leptospirosis.
A good pair of broken-in hiking boots is a must. The hike begins in a tropical rain forest on the Northern part of the round-sized island of Kawai'i. Following a marathon 600 foot climb through a dense forest of guava, taro, and native trees, the narrow trail goes up and down and meanders through rain forest for a couple of miles before a steep descent to Hanakapi'ai Beach, itself a wonderful little isolated beach with a stream in the middle. There are signs with notches signaling the number of people who have lost their lives in the heavy surf. This trail can be made as a trial to see if the hikers want to continue. Many hikers, even in great shape, choose not to...
The next phase of the hike is an immediate, almost vertical trail rising almost 900 feet over the beach, featuring wet, slippery switchbacks. More ups and downs through narrow trails carved into the Pali, sheer vertical rock formations rising directly from the ocean to several thousand feet. About the 7-mile marker, the deep Hanakoa Valley stretches ahead, allowing for the tired feet and exhausted bodies to get some rest on a primitive camping area with a stream for water filtration and a good night of sleep. That part of the island gets enormous amounts of rain, so heavy downpours are possible.
Following Hanakoa, an almost miraculous change happens in the terrain. Round a corner and one goes from a rain forest to a semi-desert. The trail gets dry, dusty, and even more dangerous as the lack of cover allow land slides on the side of the Pali's. Nonetheless, the sheer beauty of the place is spellbinding. Close to the 9 mile point, the Kalalau Beach area can be seen. And it is one of the most magnificent views on Earth.
Towards the end of the steeply downward trail, one reaches an illegal settlement of old hippies that have been living there probably since the days of Height Ashbury. There is a hut they call the "Library" and additional temporary buildings that oftentimes get taken down by the Rangers, only to be rebuilt by the squatters.
Once at Kalalau Beach, some of the most wonderful scenery on the planet is yours. The almost two-mile long beach is nestled between rock formations that end at the sheer vertical walls of the 5,000 foot cliffs, with a monumentally gorgeous valley in the background. Towards the end of the beach, a Heiau, a sacred Hawaiian altar, has been built inside a cave. The beach, made of fine volcanic sand, defies description. Depending on the time of the season, there may be from a few people to none at the beach, allowing for, if one wishes, au naturel attire...
There is a large stream at Kalalau Beach close to the elevated camping area, as well as composting toilets and fire pits. There are no telephones, electricity, cars, engines, or anything resembling human engineering.
One of the nicest places on earth....