Strangely enough, Sadaharu Aoki reminds me of Goldman Sachs!
Before anyone visualizes a place where people are angrily picketing outside (for being the poster child of what's wrong with the global economy), let me explain what I mean by that. Sadaharu Aoki has a fabulous brand name and reputation in the industry. Everyone who has dealt with it is in awe of its abilities and track record. But, what few people know is that it's not a fountain of ingenuity and creativity - instead, it has mastered the art of replicating a successful product. It's strength really is execution, as opposed to innovation.
For seven years, my profile has had under 'My Last Meal On Earth': "Macarons & Pastries by Pierre Herme and Sadaharu Aoki" - That's been edited after my last trip to Paris, to include just one name...
Is the patisserie still making efforts to innovate? Have I missed any developments with Aoki's life? Why have the bakery's Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook accounts (in English) not been updated since October 2016? (Even the today's catalogue on the English website is as of December 2016). I hope, and pray, that all's well with him. But, even if he's doing well, I still worry that the silence on the social media accounts is part of a bigger picture: of the patisseries now being on auto-pilot...
You're always safe in ordering anything at Sadaharu Aoki that features black sesame or Matcha (his sesame éclair and tarte caramel are masterpieces!). I ordered four macarons here in my last visit: Sesame, Hojaicha, Citron, and Rose. Rose was clearly the one I liked most - for the aromatics, not just the texture and taste. In the sables, I got the Diamants, which were competent, but lagged a superior version I'd had in Montreal (Maison Christian Faure). I also tried three different pastries, including the popular Bamboo.
Cheese cake Citronne: Pate sucree, cream cheese, lemon cream, hazelnut crumble.
Bamboo: light almond sponge cake, green tea cream, dark chocolate ganache, green tea punch.
Ginza: almond biscuit, hibiscus cream, coulis of strawberry, raspberry, and currant.
It's clear that in terms of design, chef Aoki prefers the spiral. It's there in his Ispahan equivalent: Symphonie (with earl grey crème brulee)... and, as one of the biggest fans of the movie Vertigo, I can understand why. But, as he says about his motto on everyday life after hearing someone say "Delicious!": "Good, but I can do even better!"
Yes, you can! Master Patissier, Aoki. (4.5 stars)