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    Victoria, BC

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    Steamship Terminal

    4.0 (1 review)

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    12 years ago

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    Fan Tan Alley - 09.04.23 Fan Tan Alley

    Fan Tan Alley

    3.9(49 reviews)
    1.0 km

    Fan Tan Alley, one of the narrowest streets in Canada and is only three to six feet wide and 240…read morefeet long, that runs between Fisgard Street and Pandora Avenue (formerly Cormorant Street). It came into being between 1885 and 1920 as Chinese and Western landowners initially constructed buildings fronting on Fisgard and Cormorant, then over time filled in the spaces behind with new building. "Fan Tan" is named after a game played in gambling dens above the alley. The lower storefronts housed opium dens, restaurants, and shops. Opium was legal in Canada until 1908, but gambling was not. Trap doors to second floors and locked gates at each end of the alley helped slow down police during raids on the illegal gambling dens. Today, Fan Tan Alley is a neat shopping street with several locally owned stores. The shops are small in size, but each offers something different. Products available in Fan Tan Alley range from ice cream and other treats to vintage records and trendy clothing. Another key feature of Fan Tan Alley is its architecture. A significant amount of the exterior has a brick finish. The old buildings appear extra tall thanks to the street's narrow width.

    fan tan alley feels like a secret the city almost doesn't want you to find…read more you can wander through victoria's chinatown without noticing it, then suddenly there it is: an impossibly narrow passage wedged between old brick buildings. stepping in feels less like entering an alley and more like slipping behind the curtain of the city. its name comes from fan tan, a gambling game once played in hidden rooms nearby. a century ago, this alley was alive with apartments, businesses, clan halls, gambling dens, and opium rooms, all connected by stairways, courtyards, and passageways mostly invisible from the street. while some activity was secretive, the bigger story is the community that thrived here despite discrimination and exclusion. for generations of chinese immigrants, fan tan alley offered work, friendship, support, and a sense of belonging. the buildings and hidden courtyards weren't just functional, they were the backbone of a community carving out its own space in a world that often shut them out. the narrow alley, tiny doorways, upper windows, and unusual fractional addresses like "1/2" all hint at the dense, layered way life was lived here. today, fan tan alley hums with a quieter energy. independent shops, galleries, studios, and cafés occupy spaces that once hid games, meetings, and everyday life. the history isn't confined to plaques or museum displays, it lingers in the narrow passage, the hidden courtyards, and the oddly numbered doorways. for all the stories of gambling dens and opium rooms, what remains most striking is the sense that this was, above all, a place where people built lives. walking through it feels less like seeing a landmark and more like stumbling across a piece of history that never quite disappeared.

    Photos
    Fan Tan Alley
    Fan Tan Alley - 09.04.23

    09.04.23

    Fan Tan Alley

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    Il Terrazzo Ristorante

    Il Terrazzo Ristorante

    4.5(794 reviews)
    0.7 km
    $$$

    Just another excellent evening with the restaurant folks! This time, finding the place was easier…read more(it's off a back alley). Got there just when they opened and got a prime seating near (but not to near) one of the fireplaces (they have several italian brick style). The restaurant has many twists and turns creating many wonderful dining alcoves. Very inviting to sit and talk. So on a cold December evening we both had the Polo Appollonia; a wonderful mixture of garlic, bacon, and cheesey pasta. But the real star of the meal were the appetizers! Amazing tasting tomato soup, and the insalata caprese. The salad had a large portion of crisp tomatoes served with like a half pound of real homemade buffalo mozzarella, and lots of fresh basil. Almost a meal. The waiter was very helpful in selections of the food and some wine. We will definitely be back on our next visit to Vancouver Island.

    You have to come here! Amazing food, service and atmosphere. Ordered drinks- loved the Chianti…read more Got the caprese salad for an appetizer- perfect for 4 people to share. I ordered the LINGUINE CAPESANTE without onions. It could not have been better. Allison was the most amazing server. Ask for her! My friend had the FRUTTI di MARE della CASA. Those were probably the table favorites. The manager even came by to ask us how things were going. On a Monday night the place was packed. I recommend making a reservation. The bread and the olive spread with the dinner were so good. We ordered the tiramisu and the crème brûlée to share. Amazing. I cannot say enough good things about this restaurant !! Love it!

    Photos
    Il Terrazzo Ristorante - The interior is stunning

    The interior is stunning

    Il Terrazzo Ristorante - Chocolate cake and gelato

    Chocolate cake and gelato

    Il Terrazzo Ristorante - The architecture is stunning

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    The architecture is stunning

    A Taste of Victoria Food Tours - La Roux Patisserie

    A Taste of Victoria Food Tours

    4.9(73 reviews)
    1.2 km

    Andy does a great job on this local food tour. He chooses a mix of local vendors that are places…read moreyou might not necessarily walk into on your own - but you'd be missing out if you didn't! He also balances the tour (about six stops) with anecdotes about the history of Victoria and how immigration built a food culture - adding immensely to the experience. Me and my vegetarian spouse both loved the tour. Highlights included an awesome and hearty meat ball and an Anjali Spring Roll with an amazing peanut sauce. You'll definitely feel full after the tour so plan on a lighter lunch and dinner!

    A Taste of Victoria was a terrific tour for us, and Andy really made it so! He tells so much…read moreinteresting history and background not only of Victoria, but the various districts and even streets and alleys along the way. And he works hard to have six of the tastiest treats you'd want to try, ready at just the right time as you walk through Victoria. He even helped one shop prepare their Matcha lemonade for us when they were overrun with customers! Besides the lemonade, we had a fantastic meatball, terrific spring roll, Filipino pastry, delicious Korean fried chicken, and a top quality chocolate. We did NOT need to buy dinner that night, either. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!! Easily 5+ stars. We'd repeat this tour next time we come. Thanks Andy!!

    Photos
    A Taste of Victoria Food Tours - 1st tasting.

    1st tasting.

    A Taste of Victoria Food Tours - Last tasting.

    Last tasting.

    A Taste of Victoria Food Tours - Andy explaining the history of Fan Tan alley in Chinatown.

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    Andy explaining the history of Fan Tan alley in Chinatown.

    Steamship Terminal - localflavor - Updated July 2026

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