This place has been in and out of ownership over the past few years, with extended periods of closure. My previous visits faired from middling to poor but I am pleased to say that it now seems to have some uniformity about it. New owners with their chef Gareth being said owner.
This bodes well as almost without fail, when I have been to an establishment where the owner is the chef the quality tends to be higher. You see owners who don't cook in their own place may begin with a very good chef, someone with talent and flair but often that chef will move on, called by higher wages and a new challenge. So; the owner brings in a new chef but he or she does not live up to the standards of chef numero uno. Reputation drops and there-on-after things become difficult. So it was nice when the Manager introduced me to Gareth and told me a little about him.
This was lunch time so I cannot divulge on their alcoholic drinks menu but I did notice that the lunch menu, although not small was concise. There were choices of lighter bights, no doubt to induce the working lunch folk and then a menu of larger meals and that is exactly what I and my better half went for.
As our soft drinks arrived so too did the obligatory basket of bread and butter.
Of the choices masterfully put in-front of us by the Manager we both decided upon the Pork Terrine. this arrived in timely fashion beautifully presented on a long slender white porcelain plate. To the left were leaves of beet, rocket and others with a light dressing then moving right we had a decent sized slice of the pork terrine itself and then a slice of toast propped carefully against a small jar of chunky apple sauce from which was protruding a teaspoon. This looked good.
Trying the dish in it's various connotations I can say it was good although for my personal taste a little more oomph was required in the terrine, perhaps more seasoning? That said we did have salt and pepper on the table if we desired it but having tried it with the apple, I was in no hurry to adjust it. The only other point I would make is that with the amount of terrine on the plate another slice of delicate Danish toast wouldn't have gone amiss.
This course was cleared away and soon afterwards our main lunch meals arrived. Between the two of us we had chosen North East Cod with Pancetta and Kale and Calf's Liver with an Onion Marmalade and Peppery Mash.
Again neither of us were disappointed and both were displayed beautifully. The cod was perfectly cooked and for lunch was probably the choice to make, not too heavy, not to little. The iron/bitter tasting kale was crunchy and the pancetta set it away nicely, whilst the liver I had was cooked to perfection. I hate overcooked liver but when it is done properly I prefer it to Venison. This was set on a roundel of the onion marmalade and creamy mash, which rather than being peppery seemed to have mustard grains running through it. It was served with a teeny jug of Jus (reduced meat gravy in this case) and both were accompanied by a bowl of fresh steamed veg.
I must admit that looking at the dishes, despite previous experiences I thought there would not be enough. I was wrong as by this point I was thinking of coffee not desert but the Manager once again came over to see that we were happy bunnies and persuaded us to share a desert.
This was bakewell tart, probably the best presented desert I have ever seen. To the left of the rectangular plate was a small shot glass containing Creme Anglais (a custard to you and I), then moving right again was a square of bakewell tart and then a scoop of good, possibly homemade, ice cream. Overlying it were a sprig of young cranberries and a long tapering sugar strand at the base of which was lying a hazelnut.
In my opinion the combination was perfect.
we had our coffees, paid our bill of less than £30 and left after being introduced to the Gareth through his hells kitchen style hatch.
I cannot wait to try the evening menu. read more
