Given the buzz - in Berlin and elsewhere - I was very excited to dine at Tim Raue. The disappointment began almost immediately (one might say that expectation is all or almost all, so I should have tempered my excitement upon entering the restaurant?). My seat faced a large canvas of trash bags (my request to shift didn't go anywhere though there were empty tables at the end of the evening). Perhaps I am not hip enough and too old, but the buzz of young waiters attired in black, wearing Keds, gave at best a sense that one was in a highly self-regarding contemporary art gallery in a global city. The cubicle-like banquette was not all that comfortable. Never mind: I came to eat, not to luxuriate in a plush environment or to see a well-dressed (again, apologies for my conventional taste) women and men as servers.
I ordered an eight-course tasting menu (my companion went with the 'signature' tasting menu with the presumably 'signature' wine tasting). Amuse-bouches were Tim Raue's variations on little dishes one gets at Chinese restaurants. They were pleasant - and piquant - enough, though each of the six or so tiny dishes were flavored too bluntly for my taste (most annoyingly, over-salted).
The wine pairing commenced with the first dish ('imperial caviar'). The sommelier brought out Dom Macle (a Jura wine). Pardon my conventional thinking but I'd have expected a glass of champagne (preferably crisp and unoxidized - I realize that the restaurant cannot afford to serve Krug so perhaps Taittinger?) or perhaps even vodka. Surprised by his choice, I asked what he was thinking about the particular wine pairing. He stammered a few inaudible words and left. I like Macle (and many Jura) wines but - while good on its own - its alchemy with the caviar dish was puzzling at best.
Shrugging my shoulders, I was happy to give the benefit of my doubt. The second course, 'white asparagus' was unfortunately poorly prepared. Limp and fibrous (it's toward the end of the Spargelzeit or the asparagus season even in northern Germany), the imperfect dish was accompanied by a Sancerre. To be sure, it was from an excellent producer, Pascal Cotat, and asparagus can go well with sauvignon blanc. The problem was more that when I asked why he picked this wine, the sommelier couldn't really say much of anything. Not a word about why Pascal and not his brother François. Not why Sancerre rather than other regions' sauvignon blanc. Or why not Grüner Veltliner or Alsatian Riesling or whatever.
Rather than piling more examples, I will just summarize. Tim Raue is probably a great chef (one of his signature dishes that my companion ate - a langoustine dish - was superb). However, coming from the land of Asian-inspired French cooking - the San Francisco Bay Area - Tim Raue's 'fusion' can be great when he checks 'Asian' flavors (such as soy sauce or wasabi), as in the langoustine dish, but well-nigh unpleasant when he uses them bluntly. It struck me as a poor imitation of imperial Chinese cuisine but with multiple portions of whatever flavors are used. It is no match, for example, with Benu or any number of restaurants in my home town.
The sommelier's choices for the 'signature' tasting menu seemed generally excellent so I am not sure if he didn't spend any time thinking through for my tasting course. More troubling to me, however, is his unwillingness to articulate his reasons for choosing a particular wine to go with a particular dish. It's possible that his English is poor, but when he switched to German he wasn't much better. When asked about the Bordeaux white he selected for Hamachi, all he could say was that the candied-fruit flavor went well with the 'jade sauce' for the fish (the fish, incidentally, was overcooked - surely a bad sign in a high-end restaurant). There was not a single pairing that was inspired and not a single time he (or other servers) gave any information that went beyond the label and Hugh Johnson's compact guide.
The new 'international style,' i thought, valorized local and regional produce (and wine). I didn't really see much of anything that would satisfy a locavore in food or wine (not a single German or even Austrian Riesling). The final dish probably said it all: Thompson grapes in a meringue made of calpico (Japanese sugary drink reminiscent of lassi). Edible.
Finally, before the final dish the waiter came and took away my specially-printed menu and said that the penultimate dish wouldn't be coming. I can see that anyone can make a mistake but did he have to tell me right before the dish was about to show up?
I can only hope that the restaurant had an off night but I suspect that it is coasting on its past achievements. If there are defenders, then I'd suggest that they take a trip to San Francisco (Benu) to learn what a truly fabulous Asian-inspired fusion cuisine might taste like. In short, Tim Raue is a disappointment. June 2016. read more