John Betjeman described Victoria station as, 'London's most conspicuous monument to commercial rivalry', referring to the fact that there are actually two distinct station at Victoria, side by side. Although modern redevelopment over the platforms has obscured this division, the brick arches above W H Smiths still separate the station into two distinct parts. Each has been partially rebuilt during its life, giving Victoria no fewer than four different styles of architecture!
The first station on the site, dating from 1860, was built by the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway (LBSCR), and incorporated the Grosvenor Hotel as part of the terminus. Designed by the architect J T Knowles, this is one of the earliest railway hotels and, despite internal alterations, still retains much of its original splendour. The exterior is well preserved, in an Italianate style, with dressings in Bath stone, and French-style mansard roofs. The hotel (opened in 1861) is now the oldest surviving part of the original station.
The original LBSCR terminus alongside the hotel was rebuilt in a grand red-brick Renaissance style in 1898, and features a central clock tower and glass portico over the cab road, both of which still exist. Underneath, the passages retain the original maps of the old LBSCR as an historical feature. Behind is what is now the spacious main concourse, retaining its original roof.
Unfortunately, the continuation of this roof over platforms 9-19 has disappeared, to make way for the Victoria Place shopping development and offices. This renders the platforms below rather cramped and claustrophobic. But services from here still go the original LBSCR destinations Brighton and the South Coast (via Gatwick Airport) and suburban services to Croydon, Streatham, Tattenham Corner, Epsom Downs, Beckenham Junction and Sutton.
In 1862, the LBSCR station was joined by that of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway, since known for obvious reasons as the Continental side. Before the advent of the Channel Tunnel, trains for Dover and Ramsgate departed from here to meet the boat trains. The famous 'Golden Arrow' and 'Night Ferry' service even crossed the channel, by a specially adapted ferry complete with railway tracks, onto which the carriages were shunted, to be pulled off on the French side.
The London, Chatham and Dover's original 1862 building has survived untouched on the far side behind platform 2. Once the main entrance, this is a handsome three-storey structure in the classical Georgian style. The original and elegant train-shed over platforms 1-8 by Sir John Fowler also survives, now mostly sheltering suburban trains to the Medway towns, Bromley, Crystal Palace, Orpington and Sevenoaks. It comprises two spans, one of 127ft by 455ft, and the other of 129ft by 385ft. You can get an excellent view of this from the balcony of the Wetherspoons pub.
By the turn of the century, the London, Chatham and Dover railway had been absorbed by the South Eastern and Chatham Railway, and the modest original terminus was no longer viewed as sufficiently grand, especially next to the new LBSCR building. So the frontage of the Continental side was rebuilt in 1908 in a grand 'Banker's Baroque' style in Portland stone, by the architect A W Bloomfield. This features huge female caryatids under classical broken pediments, and a grand entrance arch. It still carries the words 'Southern Railway' across the top, reflecting the merger of the two former rival companies in 1924 - which also unified the station properly for the first time.
To-day, the station is one of London's (and Europe's) busiest, with over 115 million passengers passing through each year, and over 350,000 each week-day. The adjacent underground station on the District, Circle and Victoria lines deals with 80 million passengers a year the second busiest in London after King's Cross / St Pancras.
Facilities apart from the dizzying array of shops and bars include showers (and baby-changing facilities, alongside the toilets), wi-fi access (BT and T-mobile), a bureau de change, a shoe-shine, secure left luggage facilities and bicycle storage. Rarely for a London terminus, there is also an NCP car-park at the station, accessed from Eccleston Bridge Road. Walk up to and through the Victoria Place shopping centre and there is also another cab road, which is less hectic than the one at the front of the station. The Network Rail site has an excellent map of the station and its facilities. read more